Hey Thump.
Not quite sure enough of what you're up to has come through here. Are
you removing ribs or just working glue in where they've come loose from
the panel already ? What exactly is this method of recrowning ? I doubt
seriously whether gluing a few mm of loose rib/panel contact along
cracks before or after drying is going to make all that much difference
to the amount of crown if thats what you are doing.... and as far as
getting reverse crown upon taking on humidity.... nahhh... with or
without filling the cracks if anything you'd be tending towards crown
increase.... of which their would probably be very little if any.
I'd like to hear more about this recrowning method. So far the best
suggestion I've heard for compression reliant boards is rib extenders...
a bit of work to install but just so.
Cheers
RicB
Dear List,
I'm attempting a soundboard recrowning by a method another
technician says he's done dozens by, successfully. The first step
involves extensive drying in a "dry-room". ( Mine's a portable
building with a dehumidifier and oil-filled heater, where the
humidity's about 10%, and the heat's about 90 ). It's been in there
a couple of weeks, and the board's existing cracks are nice and
wide, but I haven't glued the board back to the ribs, yet, where
they're loose on the sides of the cracks, and suddenly wonder if,
maybe, I should have done this before I dried it all down ??? In
other words: if I glue them now, and the board and ribs take on
moisture, will that, in fact, cause the baord to push the ribs DOWN,
because the very dry ) wood that's glued to them will be justa
tad sort of where it used to be ? Or am I worrying too much about
"nothing" ??? And I sort a figured that the question of whether
ribs were dried prior to glue-up had some bearing on the question.
Thump
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC