You'll have to put ( at least ) 6 mil plastic down,
then pour more concrete with the heating pipes in it,
OR, much better, plastic, rigid foam, heat tubes and
THEN concrete ( or wood ) floor.
For a "quick fix", put down thick plastic, and
plywood over it.( Or just cheap brown pressboard ).
Thump
--- Erwinspiano at aol.com wrote:
>
> HI Annie
> All new slabs require a plastic layer/moisture
> barrier laid down before
> the concrete is poured. Is this an old slab?
> Probably epoxy coating the floor
> is the only thing that will seal it. My brother in
> law is an expert on this
> & I'll ask him.
>
> Dale Erwin
>
> My new shop has a slab floor that currently tends
> to get moist at times.
> Since I haven't been here an entire year yet, I'm
> not sure what the
> pattern is (and I've already had some success with
> stopping it), but it
> seems to just come and go. I'm prepared ('though
> not excited <g>) to tile
> around the entire shop, but I don't know whether
> that will take care of
> it.
>
> Thus far, I've insulated the walls and covered the
> ceiling trusses with
> plastic. Foam board will go up as soon as there's
> another pair of hands
> handy. Heat currently comes from a wood pellet
> stove, which I love but
> which makes me nervous when it comes to working
> with various chemicals.
>
> So, I'm toying with the idea of putting in hot
> water floor heating,
> thinking that it will be more even and less
> dangerous AND keep the
> moisture below the floor surface. Has anyone put
> floor heat in a shop,
> and how well did it work? Is this idea worth
> pursuing?
>
> Thanks, as always.
>
> Annie Grieshop
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> **************Start the year off right. Easy ways
> to stay in shape.
>
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>
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