On 11/9/2012 10:46 AM, chrisstor at aol.com wrote: > What I noticed was missing in his description was the very important > veneer (or card stock) splints that should be on both sides of the key. Yes, I've always considered some kind of reinforcement necessary. > I've come across broken key repairs (done by others) that didn't have the splints, > only to find the the key broke in the same place because they didn't dry fit the parts > cleanly, didn't clamp, didn't use the splints, or all of the above. It much more difficult > to properly repair the key the second time through because of all the dry glue blebs in > the usually jagged end of the break. Clamping isn't necessary, but making an attempt to get the broken halves back together as cleanly as you can most definitely is. Re-broken repairs in my experience have been from not only the lack of reinforcement, but an obvious disregard for aligning and refitting the joint when it was glued. It's always amazed me how sloppy and careless these reassemblies were. Use of an inappropriate glue is also a common find. For some reason, there were a number of people in years past who were under the mistaken impression that Duco was a workable woodworking glue. I've found lots of crunchy yellowed celluloid-like junk in poorly fitted failed joints from day 1-1/2, and it just makes a real repair more difficult as do most quick and dirty shortcuts. I find that regular old original Titebond works as well as, and probably more permanently than most, and sets up plenty fast enough to be practical. Application of the card stock scab over the repair quickly acts as a very effective clamp as the card absorbs moisture from the glue (spread thinly on the key) and locks on. I've never seen a well fitted, manilla reinforced, carpenters glue repaired break in a key fail, and it doesn't take a lot of time to do it right the first time. Ron N
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