[pianotech] S&S K(52) Restoration

[Gene Nelson]

  _____  

Gene 






 Double dog what they said dittos. I've done this job with out removing the
sides etc. 






 and it was a big early model. This had a short rans bridge and it turned
out to be a screamer.






Dale






***
Just getting it apart now so I can measure and record the scale.
No wound trichords to deal with but no trans bridge. - not ruling out one
for redesign depending on the scale. The end of the tenor bridge come very
close to the bottom board/rim structure. The bass bridge seems more nicely
positioned.
Bass bridge is canto levered and straight. The canto lever will go.
Huge birdseye maple space filler/cut off device in the lower right and a
smaller cut off bar in the upper left. Might just keep that part the way it
is.
Do you know if those pins that look like bridge pins - driven into the plate
- that offset/terminate the wound bass strings just below the tuning pins
are removable?
Gene














Gene,
If the keybed can be removed, then the need to remove the sides
isn'tnecessary.<G> My experience says don't even try with a Steinway, as
their glue joints were pretty much bullet proof!<G>  (unlike most other
manufactureres.)I'd follow Del's advice with the routing of the pinblock. I
do that and I also have an interlocking Plug system that works, too. New
board? Yer on yer own there.<G> 

here.<G

 

Dale Erwin... RPT
Mason & Hamlin/Steinway/U.S pianos
www.Erwinspiano.com
209-577-8397

 
  

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Garrett <joegarrett at earthlink.net>
To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Thu, May 17, 2012 2:19 pm
Subject: Re: [pianotech] S&S K(52) Restoration

"Hello all, 
I am just starting the restoration process for a 1916 SS K. 
Having never disassembled an upright before - what is the best way to remove
the side panels and the part of the top lid that appears glued to the case?
Are these pieces glued as well as screwed to the case? It would seem to me
that removal of these panels is a must for refinishing and removal of the
plate/board etc. Also, the complete top lid assembly must come off if I am
to rout out the existing block. 
The piano will get refinished, new block new board. 
Your thoughts and experience would be appreciated."
 
Gene,
If the keybed can be removed, then the need to remove the sides
isn'tnecessary.<G> My experience says don't even try with a Steinway, as
their glue joints were pretty much bullet proof!<G>  (unlike most other
manufactureres.)I'd follow Del's advice with the routing of the pinblock. I
do that and I also have an interlocking Plug system that works, too. New
board? Yer on yer own there.<G> 
As for the Action, I'd leave it as designed. Yes, it's a bear to work on,
however it is a very good one, that just needs to be approached from a
different mindset. If I were to replace the action, I'd do a Fandrich &
Sons action before I'd consider the Plastic stuff. (The original Fandrich
action was first installed in a K-52, so all of the engineering is
there.<G> Just call Darrell....after noon tho!<G)That would increase the
action efficiency and make it a playing dream. As was stated, the plastic
stuff is not available yet. When it comes out, I suspect it wouldn't work
on a K-52 anyway.
That's my take on that.
Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain of the Tool Police
Squares R I
 
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