John, You are being too easy on him.
My reaction was to tell him to sniff CA glue fumes for a while. Then he would not even notice the mouse smell or any other smell for that matter.
Joe Goss BSMusEd MMusEd RPT
imatunr at srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: John Ross
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2012 6:16 AM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] mouse contamination from the dark side<G>
One of those messages, I wish I hadn't sent, but just kept my feelings to myself.
Sorry.
John Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia
On 28-07-2012, at 8:45 AM, John Ross <jrpiano at bellaliant.net> wrote:
Do you still go outdoors?
I really do think that you are carrying things too far.
I believe in taking normal precautions, gloves, mask and coveralls to be washed afterwards.
I don't believe in psychiatrists or psychologists, but in your case I will make an exception.
Sorry to be so blunt.
John Ross,
Windsor, Nova Scotia
On 28-07-2012, at 7:22 AM, Euphonious Thumpe <lclgcnp at yahoo.com> wrote:
Thanks, Joe!
Around here, 90% of the pianos have had mice in them, which is a big part of why I only work on my own, anymore.* And I have found that even the most extreme cleaning (dunking action parts in "Purple Power" and removing all felts and rinsing thoroughly, followed by a month in an industrial-strength ozone chamber) will not remove "mousey odor" (or dop feces stench)** completely.
If anyone knows of a technique that REALLY gets these smells out of action parts, I'd sure like to hear of it!
Euphonious Thumpe
*Besides the unpleasantness and risk to me, I don't want to add a "sense of value" to something that is a risk to customers' health, by encouraging them to invest money in it. And when I've suggested that they invest in a different instument, they tend to utterly ignore me.
** I once was given a SUPERB 1920's Emerson upright that had never been played ( zero wear on hammers, etc.) but had to burn it because the owners had paper-trained their dogs in the room with it, and the stench (only discovered once back in my shop) was horrendous! (It was the stench that caused me to call them later and inquire, whereupon they "'fessed up" about the paper-training.)
From: Joseph Garrett <joegarrett at earthlink.net>
To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, July 27, 2012 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: [pianotech] mouse contamination from the dark side<G>
There's been an ongoing conversation about all the hazards related to Mouse
Contamination.
It was said, by Keith:
"Guidelines to consider:
1) Don't pick your nose or any other part of your body while working on any
piano, let alone ones with evidence of mice activity.
2) Wash your hands before making physical contact with another living
creature during or after servicing a piano.
And here's a little tidbit:
Don't wait to wash your hands after going to the bathroom like the signs
say. Wash them before touching your privates.
That's sums it up for me."
Keith et al,
Having worked in the medical profession, in another life and specializing
in Isolation Techniques, derived from employment in a T.B. Sanitarium, the
following should be considered. (I worked there for over 3 years and only
threw a "positive" on my final test upon leaving for better employment<G>)
If someone wants to cross post this to the Dark Side, please do.<G>
Proper isolation techniques:
1. Always wear disposable outer clothing, i.e. gown, cap, booties, mask,
gloves.
2. Wash thoroughly before doning isolation garments.
3. If you have facial hair, (as I do<G>), masks will not be effective. (The
only effective way is with an encapsulated helmet. :-()
4. Wear appropriate gloves that you KNOW you are not allergic to. (many
people are extremely allergic to Latex, which can put them in anaphalactic
shock and could kill them!)
5. Gowns, etc. should be made of paper, (disposable), or cotton,
(cleanable/reusable). They should cover as much of your entire body as
possible and still allow you to do your work. (special note: your personal
comfort is not a criteria!<G>)
6. Once the "clean-up" is accomplished, remove yourself to a "Contaminated
Area" for the purpose of removing ALL possible contaminated apparel and
disposing of as necessary/prescribed. In regards to tools & equipment,
Sterilization is definately recommended. How you accomplish that, is in
accordance to what the "tool or equipment" will tolerate. (i.e. Autoclave,
Anti-bacterial Gasing, Antibiotic wipe downs, etc.)
7. Immediately. Wash Thouroughly...AGAIN! On that subject: IF the sink does
not have "elbow levers" you need to use paper towels to turn on and off the
faucets. Wash for as long as it takes you to sing, (to yourself), the
alphabet song.<G> Similarly, exiting the lavatory/"contamination area", you
should use paper towels on the door handles and anything else that could
possibly have been contaminated by someone else.
8. Don appropriate "Street Clothing".
Special note, (again): The Hantavirus can be reactivated, as can many other
nasties, with moisture and proper incubation temperatures, so do not use
plain water w/o a disinfectant! Also, many vacuums are not suitable for
this sort of decontamination, so check the specs before use, ....NOT
during.<G>
That's the proceedure as outlined in my experience. I believe it is not
necessary to go to these extremes, but it's good information to know. (for
what it's worth). Be careful out there my friends and collegues!<G>
Joe
Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain of the Tool Police
Squares R I
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