[pianotech] Chickering Grand w/brass flanges

[Joseph Garrett]

I'm still working on this action. I've FINALLY found the right combination
for shank replacement. I could not find anything that would work in a Shank
& Flange thing. What I've found to be the answer is: 1. keep the brass
flanges, as long as they are sound, (drop screws move freely & the retainer
clip/screw work properly) 2. Renner Steinway, Modified Shanks, (#913 029). 
Remove the flanges, (of course), AND remove the knuckles, which are
standard 10mm, replace with the 9mm knuckles. This probably strikes many of
you with the thought that this is an awful lot of work. Well, yes it is,
but the end results are worth it, imo.<G> 
About the only things that I don't like about this is the darned center
pins that are used in Renner Parts! Upon removal of said center pin, one
can closely observe that the center pin has a "collet" cut into the center
of the pin! Why?? I haven't a clue. Perhaps, someone can explain that one
to me? This "collet", upon removing, sheers felt out of the "exit" bushing.
This is like reaming just one side. Hence, you need to ...ream the other
side to make the bushings equal again! Not good, imo. Another item, that I
wish Renner would cease, is the practice of impregnating their bushing
cloth with graphite. Hate that. However, all said and done, this conversion
will work very well, once the parts are "re-made".<G> 
To Renner's credit, the parts are very consistant, which makes it easy to
use them for these types of action work. Also, they are very nice to work
with. Orders are dispatched quickly and accurately. Big plus in my book
tbs. 
Oh, I guess I should tell y'all why Shank & Flange combinations won't work.
Main thing is: 1. Chickering used an odd screw to hold the flanges on. It
is a #10-40! This was a thread that was used before WWII. The original
bolts are too short for wood flanges, unless you want to DEEPLY inset,
(countersink), the flange holes. I was able to find longer bolts of this
size, but only in brass, which would not be suitable, in my opinion. 2.
There are no new flange/shank combinations, that would, even, have a 6.0mm
- 6.2mm knuckle distance. 
Whee, are we having fun yet?<G> Of course, I could have made a new rail to
accomodate new flanges/shanks...but, this is a wood action framed
action!....more fun tobe sure. (the frames cannot be removed from the key
frame, they're glued/morticed.
Well, I hope this will get some piano conversations going and get us away
from the "list" FUBAR discussions.
Regards,
Joe 


Joe Garrett, R.P.T.
Captain of the Tool Police
Squares R I