[pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright

tnrwim at aol.com tnrwim at aol.com
Tue Feb 7 01:20:23 MST 2012



That's not going to happen. The less I have to do the better. And I don't relish having to bend a whole set of damper rods! No thanks. 


Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson



Terry

Take it from someone who has done this, on pianos this old, the wood is very brittle. The process of removing and putting the levers back on puts a lot of strain on that very thin strip of wood of the lever. But suit yourself. Maybe after you get a few calls backs, you'll change your mind.

Wim


 



-----Original Message-----
From: pianolover 88 <pianolover88 at hotmail.com>
To: pianotech <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Mon, Feb 6, 2012 6:42 pm
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright


That's not going to happen. The less I have to do the better. And I don't relish having to bend a whole set of damper rods! No thanks. 


Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson
"Over 50, and not '2' Tired!" 
www.unigeezer.com




From: tnrwim at aol.com
Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2012 18:17:51 -1000
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] Replacing dampers on a 1908 Steinway upright


Terry


In addition to replacing the felts, I would highly recommend that you also replace the levers. My experience ha shown that they get weak where they are screwed to the flange, and you might as well replace them now, instead later.


Wim

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 6, 2012, at 2:49 PM, pianolover 88 <pianolover88 at hotmail.com> wrote:




I"m replacing worn hammers and *dampers* on a client's old Steinway upright, circa 1908. Having never replaced dampers on this particular model, I was unaware that--apparently--replacing dampers on this piano is a NIGHTMARE, and one of the most difficult damper jobs of ANY piano, either upright or grand. Is this true? This gloomy scenario was communicated to me by a tech who works at a local piano supply house, but I'd rather not mention who. 

I was told that the felts, especially the treble, are 'tapered' and that you must "peel little layers off as you work your way up", or they won't lift properly, and won't dampen correctly. Basically I was told that ALL the dampers are almost impossible to get right with modern day replacements, without significant modification. Pics attached are from the action showing the dampers. I would appreciate ANY advice the forum member may have, and what you might suggest, short of declining the job!

PS: Brooks LTD told me that the Tokiwa TDVK damper kit (pic also attached) would work well. Your thoughts on this would also be appreciated.

Thanks,

Terry "UniGeezer" Peterson
"Over 50, and not '2' Tired!" 
www.unigeezer.com



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