Jim said: "Ahh...I knew the mention of a square would perk you up, Joe. Yeah, woke me up, fer sure!<G> > BTW, in order to adjust the lost motion, effectively, you will need to > drill the hammer rest rail for rocker capstan screw access. > 2. YES That's all it's designed for.<G> will do > 3. Do not do that. If large amounts of the hammer has been removed, you > need new hammers! What the blow is, is of little consequence. After all, > this will never play like a modern piano! Don't try to do that! You'll > drive yourself insane!<G> These hammers are an education in old felt. Feels like an interesting combination of resilience and resistance to compression...resilience and give, without being mushy. Probably has a combination of Wool and Rabbit Fur. Some of those old hammers were a real Trip.<G> I wouldn't get to "Touchy/Huggy" about it tho. <G> Ronsen hammers are every bit as good if not better, than the original stuff, imo. I'd really prefer to leave these hammers on, the felt being so fine. I'm only going to loose 1/8". It appears as if this baby was not heavily used. and I'd bet this filing will be its 1st (Actually, I think this sucker is still under warranty. Too bad the reps are all dust If you lose 1/8", that would not be enough to worry about. You could gain it back by buckskinning, (which was common on these instruments to get them to NOT be bright like "modern pianers".)<G>). So, do you think raising the rest by felt to accommodate that 1/8" would be a sorry adventure, assuming I don't look for too much in the way of stellar performance. Jim, There ya go again, trying to "improve" it! Stop! With that nonesense. Just adjust the let-off so's it's not overly effecting the after touch/dip. If the let-off was 3/16" to 1/4", it wouldn't make a damned bit of difference in touch or sound! DAMHIK!!!<G> As far as the insane part...uhh, there are elements who feel this is already a done deal...but we all know this is patently untrue...ahem...right???... AH, Welcome to my world!<G> > 4. Action centers on the hammer flanges are adjustable. This helps touch > and repetition the greatest amount. Two to Three bounces on the hammer rail > is the criteria. (If you want that explained, call me.<G>) Use standard > center pins and bushing felt. Nothing is sacred on these, imo. (unless it > happens to be a Christophori!<G>) I'll give you a call. Cool! Nice to know there are still folks who can still carry on a verbal conversation! Look forward to it. (clue: I'm out most of the time on Thurs thru Sat. Evenings, (I'm Pacific Day Light Starving Time) > Hope that helps, (also hoping you're monitoring this olde list, otherwise > you're out of luck.<G>) Monitoring I am...though the list seems to be stuck in a bit crabby lately. Only "crabby" is that they're,(powers that shouldn't be), intend to continue to try and trash a working system. That will make me Crabby fer sur!<G> Best Regards, Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain of the Tool Police Squares R I
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