[pianotech] help please

[John Ross]

I know of a grand piano that had the C/A treatment done.
It didn't work, so the person decided to have the pin block replaced.
On removing the old pin block, they discovered that the C/A had not penetrated to any extent, into the pin block. I just heard about this last week.
It was not a piano that I had worked on.
I had done a treatment on a same brand grand, and when I went back a year later, some were still not holding, so I applied more C/A, and did the tuning.
There was no extra charge for the additional application.
I have not heard back, so I am assuming that it is now ok. Mind you, I never heard back the first time, and wouldn't have known, but for the fact I was tuning again.
i always tell people to call me, if it doesn't seem to be working. Since they don't call, I am assuming that the 'fix' worked.
When in doubt, I suppose, removal of a tuning pin to check for penetration, might be a good idea.
Also it might be preferable to do the application of the C/A, when the house is at its driest, in January or February.
Doing it in the height of Summer, might not work due to the higher moisture content of the block.
John Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia.
On 11-11-2011, at 11:12 AM, David Love wrote:

> Drilling the holes is probably unnecessary and may even be
> counterproductive.  There is certainly enough of a gap between the plate
> bushings and the pin to allow a thin viscosity CA glue to penetrate down to
> the block and spread around the base of the pin.  Drilling a hole is not
> only not necessary but might actually disrupt the natural flow of the CA
> around the base of the pin depending on where it is that the hole actually
> penetrates through the bottom of the bushing.  Just lay the piano on its
> back and forget the holes that you've just spent  all that time drilling and
> with a fine needle applicator apply the CA toward the back of the pin where
> there is most likely the largest gap.  Because some pooling might occur I'd
> let the piano sit overnight or at least for a couple of hours before
> standing it back up.   
> 
> David Love
> www.davidlovepianos.com
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
> Of Leslie Bartlett
> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 8:16 PM
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] help please
> 
> Upright piano...............................
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
> Of Ron Nossaman
> Sent: Thursday, November 10, 2011 10:01 PM
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Subject: Re: [pianotech] help please
> 
> On 11/10/2011 8:53 PM, Greg Newell wrote:
>> I'm confused here. It looks like you've drilled every one. How is that
>> somehow better or less time consuming than just flipping the piano over
> with
>> action removed and applying CA from the underside of the block? It seems
> to
>> me like a better way to apply too since you're putting the CA directly
> onto
>> the pin/block contact with little chance of gluing the block to the plate
> as
>> was described in a thread a bit ago.
> 
> Suit yourself but, the very last place I want the pins tight is at the 
> bottom of the hole.
> Ron N
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