[pianotech] Ballistol Lube

Gregor _ karlkaputt at hotmail.com
Fri Nov 11 03:10:58 MST 2011


Generations of German techs (including me) used Ballistol for action work. But in the meantime it´s considered as beeing not so good like Protec CLP. It´s an oil that is free of resin, but it´s still an oil. That means that it emulsifies when it gets in concact with water or humidity. I carry it in an drop oiler and it can happen that the consistency changes after a long time so that it won´t get out of the oiler anymore. Like CLP it´s criticized for possible negative long term effects on action centers. But who cares: it works or it works not (after a few years). When it does not work over the years, you can still change the centers. But it might be hard to change the felt bushings of the centers because glue won´t work on wood anymore when oil is involved. I think (hope) that this is not the case when using CLP.

I never used it on leather and I will never do it. It´s true that Ballistol is used as an household leather care product. My sister used it for saddles and other leather stuff for horses and I got the impression that it makes the leather soft again, but only for some time. If you once started to use any oil for leather you have to do it again and again. At least I think so and I am not motivated to prove the opposite by trying it in a piano as a long term experiment. I am still searching for an alternative for leather key bushings. Often I take teflon powder for that. If I were to try Ballistol for leather key bushings, I would use it in homeopathic doses only, applied to the pins, not the leather itself.

Using it for old dampers seems dangerous. We use gloves for stringing but have no scruple to bring oil on the strings via the dampers? Sounds strange.

Gregor

------------------------
piano technician - tuner - dealer
Münster, Germany
www.weldert.de


> Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 00:08:55 -0500
> From: classicpianodoc at gmail.com
> To: pianotech at ptg.org
> Subject: [pianotech]  Ballistol Lube
> 
> First the disclaimer, I posted the Ballistol TT&T. This is the best
> stuff I have ever used for almost anything that is sticky or squeaks.
> It beats any silicone based lube and it really lasts. The spray can is
> what I carry on the road. I buy them by the dozen.  It comes with a
> thin straw to reach difficult places.  The bulk can comes in pints or
> gallons. I recently bought a gallon. That gives you some idea how good
> I think it is. I put the bulk Ballistol in an olive oil sprayer that
> pumps up by hand with an up and down action of the top. You can get
> one  at most cooking accessory stores.  The bulk liquid is a bit more
> viscous than the spray can. You can dilute it with your favorite
> solvent if you like, but you don't have to and I don't.  I use the
> olive oil sprayer in the shop for action work.
> 
> With an old action on the bench, I will just make a continuous spray
> over all the centers. That takes about a minute and you solve all
> kinds of issues.  It is the best thing I have found for verdigris. It
> works on all but the most stubborn old S&S model Vs. In the home, I
> use it to free up any stuck or slow center or key bushing. One shot
> and you are done. It saves so much time. Rarely do problems come back.
> 
>  Don't worry about getting it on felt or leather. It is safe for both.
> For knuckles, I mix some MolyKote (molybdenum dioxide) powder with the
> bulk form and use it to softens the leather and the Molykote is more
> slippery than graphite. Don't add solvent here or it will harden the
> leather. DAMHIK.  I put this on with a metal handled plumbers brush
> sold for solder flux.
> 
> If I run across old hard dampers that don't respond to an emery board
> filing, toothbrushing or needling, and I know the owner won't have
> them replaced, I give them a shot of Ballistol. It softens the felt
> and quiets them immediately. One caution, on bass strings, it will
> dissolve the corrosion on the copper and will transfer the green
> residue to the felt. Probably no problem on an old upright but not so
> good on a nice new grand.  Also, if overdone, it can get into the
> copper winding and could dampen the tone slightly. So go easy around
> bass strings. On the good side, if you have a buzzing string that you
> can't quiet short of replacing it, Give a small shot of Ballistol on
> the ends of the winding and it will likely quit buzzing. It takes care
> of buzzing in old spinet bass strings, etc. with no cost, and you are
> a hero. The effect lasts too.
> 
> Use it on trap work too for squeaks,if for no other reason but to find
> the squeak. A shot at each moving part will quickly find the culprit.
> In most cases, it will cure it too.
> 
> I also use it on my van for squeaky door hinges, stiff door lock
> tumblers or frozen ones,and those little bearing/wheels on sliding van
> doors that make the door hard to close. Ballistol does not seem to
> collect dirt either, so these bearings stay cleaner longer than with
> WD-40 or silicone. I don't even buy WD-40 anymore. I haven't bought
> any silicone based sprays in ages.
> 
> Concerning odor, it does not have a strong smelling solvent in the
> spray can and has no solvent in the bulk can, so you are not going to
> gas someones living room by using a lot of spray. It does leave an
> odor. Initially, it is a bit like a wet dog smell but quickly changes
> to a cedar oil-like smell that is not unpleasant. Owners will start
> relating that smell to a smooth working action. LOL.
> 
> Ballistol is a light oil and will leave some oil in wood parts. If it
> is a brand new white wood action in a showroom, use with care or be
> aware that there will be a slight darkening of wood. No problem in old
> pianos. It disappears in darker wood.
> 
> Ballistol is a household product in Germany. It has many other uses
> too. An interesting one: it is antibacterial and will cure foot rot in
> horses. It might even work on athlete's foot. Not sure about that. But
> it was used to good effect in WWI and WWII on wounds as well as on
> guns.
> 
> Once you try Ballistol, you will likely reach for it first and might
> quit carrying any other lubes.
> 
> Doug Gregg
> Classic Piano Doc
> Southold, NY
 		 	   		  
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