> Not quite. It's a climb cut, so it's a down shear from the top. There's no > tear out whatsoever. See photo. I left it big so you could zoom in close. > > Ok...thats how I run almost all my sash rabbets or molded profiles which include rabbets...Only I only climb cut with a 1-1/4 inch arbor and power fed stock. I guess you can get away with it since the cut is so minimal. Does the cutter tend to pull you into the cut? With a 1/2" arbor I would normally not climb cut, but with 2 pillow blocks and the cutter being so close to the outboard pillowblock I guess thats why you get away with it. By the way, what is that cool-looks-like-double-cylinder-hydraulic-lift thing that clamps the bridge. I went web searching but could not find any thing that resembled that...what do you call it, or did it fall off the back of a truck...<G> > > The rule is, never design in hardware. > Absolutely. Actually since I started using autocad, I go from the envelope, to trial mockup, then build it on the screen. That way I really know the item in 3d before I hit the shop or buy anything. There are way fewer ugly suprises or ,even worse, check-mates 1 step before I was supposed to be finished. > A table saw? How does that work? > I was just out doing a preliminary mockup. I'm pretty sure it will work, though not as efficiently as what you've got there. The top surfaceof the cap at the notch with its surrounding notch or two is the index surface. Since I already own a really nice flat bottom dado for the cut, the idea is a simple sliding jig with 2 runner slides and stop. The index surface(top surface of bridge cap) is clamped down to the sliding table, and indexed visually to the termination of the kerf. All the geometry seems to work. The big problem is, and this is where this setup will be clumsy, you cant see the cut from above to position the work piece. But the sliding jig is small enough that you just lift it and the clamped bridge inbetween notches, flip it over where your peepers can see the index mark, move the bridge, retighten the clamp from the bottom while the jig is upsidedown ( machine screws through the boom of the sliding base), flip it back over, put the slides in the groove and cut. I can set the thing up to make this flip move at least somewhat efficient. The jig is simple enough that a mockup and trial cap will let me see if it blows up in my face or not. My bet is it will work well enough to get me into lam caps but will not be terribly efficient. With a 7-1/2" cutter, it will also require a final chisel swipe at the termination to make the start of the notch more abrupt. I'll let you know if it works. Jim I > -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20101017/fa9a6975/attachment.htm>
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