Great Pic's Paul. Repair looks good to me. Good enough for the girls I go with. Steve Blasyak Orange County Chapter ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: "Paul Milesi, RPT" <paul at pmpiano.com> To: PTG Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>, PTG CAUT List <caut at ptg.org> Date: Fri, 30 Apr 2010 11:38:48 -0400 Subject: [pianotech] Glue Strength for Pedal Lyre Repair Many thanks to all who contributed to my education the past couple of days! I ended up gluing the two original top block pieces together, clamped for 24 hours, then drilled and inserted three 1/2" hardwood dowels. Finally, I put a little stain on the dowel ends to blend them with the lyre finish (refinished years ago by somebody else). While aware of Steinway lyre construction using posts and wedges, I thought it best not to remove remaining top block piece from posts or remove the wedges. I felt re-inserting wedges after gluing the top block might split my glue joint open again. I just tried to take advantage of the wide surface area between the two pieces to achieve a good glue joint. Question about the doweling: When I drilled the 1/2" holes, my dowels were a little lose, not a tight fit that needed to be pounded or squeezed in. I assume with enough glue, this is OK? When I use hammer shanks for wood filler, the shanks are generally tight in the hole I've drilled. Not sure why these turned out differently. If anybody reads this paragraph, I'd sure appreciate insight into whether tight fit is necessary, and how to best achieve it. Thinking about this because I know clamping a glue joint is so important. Pix attached. Paul Milesi, RPT Washington, DC (202) 667-3136 E-mail: paul at pmpiano.com Website: http://www.pmpiano.com -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20100501/9d6749b9/attachment.htm>
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