[pianotech] plate finishing and touch up

David Love davidlovepianos at comcast.net
Fri Feb 26 17:50:45 MST 2010


One thing is that the biggest problems are those little individual aliquots
like you find on MHs.  My tendency is to replace them with a single
continuous bar or vertical hitches.  Steinway aliquots don't usually present
too much problem as long as you move them around before the tension is all
the way up.  

 

David Love

www.davidlovepianos.com

 

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Nick Gravagne
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 8:50 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] plate finishing and touch up

 

Thanks David. I will consider your suggestions.

 

Now let me come at this by saying that in the default condition chips and
ripples are unavoidable. Those of you for whom this is not the rule, please
weigh in. But given chips that now require touch up, how do you proceed? I
have never been happy with this kind of touch up, especially in the web area
where you are now working around new pins and coils.

 

In any case, all I have really been able to do is brush in some gold
lacquer, but this doesn't fill the chip, it just colors it. A bondo patch
will require sanding which will scuff the plate beyond the small localized
repair, and now things can go from bad to worse.

 

Joe Garrett writes:

 

I have become quite good at repairing the chips.

 

Nick writes:

 

Ok, Joe, now you've done it! How about some tips on chips and dips?

 

Nick Gravagne, RPT

Piano Technicians Guild

Member Society Manufacturing Engineers

Voice Mail 928-476-4143

 

  _____  

From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of David Love
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 9:29 AM
To: pianotech at ptg.org
Subject: Re: [pianotech] finishing a plate

 

I use a very light coat of primer.  Only enough to seal the bondo areas
really and give a nice flat uniform color so that I can more easily see any
chips or scratches I missed.  I agree that generally it's better to keep the
finish on the thick enough to get good coverage but otherwise on the thinner
side.  When you add the clear topcoat it can get too thick and take awhile
to really harden so as not to get marred when you lay on plate hardware.
Think about it, after refinishing a case it's usually advisable not to move
the piano for at least 3 weeks unless you want blanket imprints in the
finish.  So, it's best, if possible, to let the plate finish harden for
similar length of time before you start the stringing process especially if
you have individual aliquots.  Production schedules often make that
difficult but if it can be planned that way it's better.  

 

David Love

www.davidlovepianos.com

 

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