Obviously, my mind is going, of course that is what I should have realized. LOL John Ross Windsor, Nova Scotia ----- Original Message ----- From: wimblees at aol.com To: Pianotech at PTG.org Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 5:11 AM Subject: [pianotech] Fwd: pinblock Question Wim, am I hearing you correctly? Pinblock lasting up to ten years? Something sounds wrong with that statement??? John Ross Not the pin block. The toilet bowl ring last 10 years, putting a little dab of bees wax on the plate screws in 8- 10 pin blocks a year. Wim -----Original Message----- From: John Ross <jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 8:28 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] pinblock Question Wim, am I hearing you correctly? Pinblock lasting up to ten years? Something sounds wrong with that statement??? John Ross Windsor, Nova Scotia ----- Original Message ----- From: wimblees at aol.com To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Wednesday, September 02, 2009 12:16 AM Subject: Re: [pianotech] pinblock Question Add just a dab of Teflon powder to make it easier to > cut the threads. > Gene I've also found that either running a lag screw (long, with the head cut off, in an electric drill) with a similar thread in as a tap, or just forcing the sucker in cold with an impact driver, works pretty well too. Ron N A "cheap" way to help the screws in the pin block is a toilet bowl ring, made of bees wax. A little dab on each screw make it go is smooth. Averaging 5 - 8 pin blocks a year, I've had mine last up to 10 years, Wim -----Original Message----- From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 5:14 pm Subject: Re: [pianotech] pinblock Question Gene Nelson wrote: > Hi John, > For the screws I have learned to use this technique that works ok - it > is a two step process and I like it better than a tapered bit for the > big pin block screws. > Measure the shank (may be the wrong terminology - sorry)of the screw and > add 10% and that is the drill size for the threaded part. Flag the drill > for depth and dirll the hole. For the shoulder, use the same drill size > as the shoulder, flag the drill and redrill the hole to the depth of the > shoulder. > Add just a dab of Teflon powder to make it easier to > cut the threads. > Gene I've also found that either running a lag screw (long, with the head cut off, in an electric drill) with a similar thread in as a tap, or just forcing the sucker in cold with an impact driver, works pretty well too. Depends on where you stand and how you squint. Ron N -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090902/fcffda01/attachment.htm>
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