Wim said: "Drill all the way through the block.?" Wim, You were doing really good up to that! I noticed that you put a question mark at the end, so I assume you weren't sure. I'll give you that. It is my contention that most pinblocks fail because they are drilled all the way through! When I do a new block, I seal the whole thing with finish. I do not drill all the way through for anything, including the tuning pins. For that I use a brad point drill and allow just the slight dimple on the underside. Because I use Pin Driving Fluid, this allows for the hydraulic release and allows the PDF to seal that "dimple".<G> Just my take on this issue. YMMV BTW I have a chart that I got out of Fierer's Cabinet Making , (wood working), book. It's my bible for this sort of thing. It tells you which drill to use for the "Shank" and which to use for the "Pilot". Also, differentiates between soft wood and hard wood. <G> With pinblocks I have found that I need to go one size, (number bits in conjunction with metric & fraction), larger bit. Seems to work well. Also, I have made a set of Wood Screw TAPS out of various sizes of Wood screws. These are used to CUT the threads for the screws that will eventually live in these pre-tapped holes. Lastly, I insert the screws with Bee's Wax! All of this is precautionary for the possibility of the screws BREAKING OFF while putting the piano back together. DAMHIK!! (AND, it's always the last screw that breaks!!<G>) Hope this helps, Joe Regards, Joe Joe Garrett, R.P.T. (Oregon) Captain, Tool Police Squares R I -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech.php/attachments/20090901/eb29a7bf/attachment.htm>
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