[pianotech] Action Reconditioning/Rebuilding: When is it best to replace ...

PAULREVENKOJONES at aol.com PAULREVENKOJONES at aol.com
Thu Nov 12 01:59:52 MST 2009



In a message dated 11/11/2009 9:40:56 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
paul at pmpiano.com writes:

I am beginning  to recondition/rebuild a 1915 Steinway M action with all 
new action parts  (verdigris).  Now that I’ve removed the keys for cleaning 
and bushing, I  have taken a close look at the frame.  While the pins look 
fine (cleaning  and polishing should do nicely), the felt punchings are “ratty,”
 with evidence  of moth infestation.  While the front rail felts were 
barely touched, the  balance rail are pretty bad, with the first one or two on 
either end almost  gone, and even some very small holes in the ones toward the 
center.  The  backrail cloth also has been moth-eaten.  I could probably “
get away”  with leaving it, but this is not my style or quality of  work.
Don't. Do as complete a job as you can. It'll pay off in  spades when you 
get everything back together.



In the past, with one  exception, I have used the original frame felts when 
doing an action job,  mostly because they were pianos that were only 20-30 
years old, and the felts  were fine, no real reason for replacing them as 
far as I could see.  But  this job has me wondering whether to leave felts on 
any job now.  What is  the thinking on this?  If you’re charging good money 
for full action  reconditioning, should you be replacing the frame felts as 
a matter of course,  or at discretion?
On a piano this old, yes you should replace the felts (all of  them) as a 
matter of course. There is simply no good reason to try to salvage  100 year 
old material that is worn, compacted, and vermin/insect  damaged.

The best reason I can  think of for leaving originals in place if they’re 
OK is that it saves a lot  of time spent key leveling, etc..  Is this  OK?
Really? The keys are at the level you wish already? That's  amazing. :-)



I have never replaced an  isolated felt or two on a full action job, but am 
now wondering whether that  is “acceptable practice?”  Certainly not “best 
practice.”  At least  not for “complete action reconditioning/rebuilding.”

Finally, when I do  replace these felts, anybody have strong 
feelings/recommendations about the  felt I use?  I’ll be using Steinway hammers, shanks, 
flanges &  wippens.  Although I’ve got bags full of felt and paper punchings 
from a  major supply house, I am inclined to order punchings and backrail 
cloth from  Steinway because of things I’ve read regarding relative firmness 
of various  punchings.  Thoughts or recommendations?
There are lots of quite good felts out there that  are quite good and 
aren't at Steinway prices. 



Lastly, what about the  felt strip on the hammer rail?  This one seems to 
be OK, but of course  not “shiny and new.”  :)  Would “you guys” cut off 
the old felt and  replace with new?  That means you have to cut the new strip, 
since you  can’t get it under the brackets like the original.  I have and 
would use  the new black strip from Steinway with the  adhesive.
If you are replacing parts because of verdigris, take a gander  under the 
felt on the rail. Why yes, it's green, isn't it? Not only replace the  felt 
(which is actually quite easy to get under the brackets by making an arrow  
end on the replacement piece and feeding it through), but you can then polish 
up  the frame and seal it with clear brass lacquer (Brasslac from Mohawk 
does a  fine job). 



Does worrying about all  this matter?  I was taught the visual aesthetic is 
just as important as  the functional.  Is that the consensus?  Do we go to 
the nth degree?  Where do you draw the line?  I’ve done a couple jobs that 
really  “drowned me,” but I got results.

This is for a very high-end private  client in Washington, DC, with the 
piano in a spectacular cotemporary home.  The piano’s been in the family for 
two, maybe three, generations, moved  around, etc.  Keytops were replaced with 
plastic about 25 years ago, good  job, but not much else of substance done. 
 Case is in very good  condition, board, bridges, etc. look fine.
You've just answered all of your questions yourself. You  didn't mention 
replacing the let-off buttons and screws, though. It takes all of  45 minutes. 
 
ps Is Millie and Als still open up on 18th at Columbia  Rd?
 
Paul



I’m acquiring invaluable  knowledge by monitoring and participating in the 
Pianotech and CAUT lists!  Thanks to all who contribute!

Paul
-- 
Paul  Milesi
Registered Piano Technician (RPT)
Piano Technicians  Guild
(202) 667-3136
(202) 246-3136 Cell
E-mail:  paul at pmpiano.com
Website:  _http://www.pmpiano.com_ (http://www.pmpiano.com/) 

Address:
3000  7th Street NE, Apt. 204
Washington, DC  20017-1402

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