Speaking of?getting bridge pins down in their holes, has anyone documented any difference between driving them in by hand vs. pushing them in (as, I am told, many of the larger piano manufacturers do) in terms of pin looseness down the line.? I ask because when replacing a broken string, I routinely give the bridge pins involved a tug.? Most of the bridge pins from "hand made" pianos (in which the pins were, presumably,? pounded in) come right out, so I glue size.??In the same building, I have yet to encounter any loose?bridge pins on the mass-produced pianos present (in this case, all Yamahas).? And, yes, strings do break on the Yammies?as well. Realizing that there are other variables involved (such as type of material used for bridge capping, how the wood was processed, grain orientation, drilling considerations, etc.), I am curious if what I have encountered is consistent with what others have noticed.? And if there IS a marked difference between pounding in vs. pushing in, it seems like it might be worth developing an arbor press-ette (a companion for your palm nailerette) device for bridge pins. Anyone? Alan Eder -----Original Message----- From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> To: pianotech at ptg.org Sent: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:15 am Subject: Re: [pianotech] palm nailerette Dempsey Jr., Paul E wrote:? > Bridge pins?? ? If controllable. I played around with driving bridge pins pneumatically, and so far, it's not been less cumbersome than just whacking them with a hammer. This little guy, and a punch, just might do better for final height positioning. The price is sure right if it works.? ? Ron N? ? -------------- next part -------------- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://ptg.org/pipermail/pianotech_ptg.org/attachments/20090216/5217dda0/attachment.html>
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