Thanks, Ron. I'm curious to see how this works out, since I now see from re-measuring and careful observation that dimensions are so close to originals. Also thanks for the pointer to previous discussion, which I missed because of being off list for a few days when ill. I did pick up some good insights there as well. Paul -- Paul Milesi Registered Piano Technician (RPT) Piano Technicians Guild (202) 667-3136 (202) 246-3136 Cell E-mail: paul at pmpiano.com Website: http://www.pmpiano.com Address: 3000 7th Street NE, Apt. 204 Washington, DC 20017-1402 > From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net> > Reply-To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Date: Sun, 13 Dec 2009 10:29:59 -0600 > To: <pianotech at ptg.org> > Subject: Re: [pianotech] Effects of replacing keytops without routing down > keysticks > > Paul Milesi wrote: >> With replacement keytops mentioned above, will I be able to make this >> action work after installing all new frame felts and new S&S hammers, >> shanks, flanges, wippens, let-off regulating buttons? > > Find out. Set up samples with what you've got with specified > key height, dip, and blow, leaving the back rail alone for the > moment. See if you can get sharps and naturals to work the > same with the official numbers. If you can't get the naturals > to full dip without burying the sharps, you'll need to either > shim the sharps up as suggested, or replace the naturals to > the correct height relationship with the sharps. > > This was discussed in the long distant past of nine days ago > on list. > Ron N >
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