waves

[Fenton Murray]

Bill Wise broke his neck in 1965 and became a quadriplegic for the rest of his life.  (He wrote an article for Surfer Magazine about that in the early 90'

> I'm going to look that up. We've lost more than a few local guys here to big waves lately. Jay Moriarity (actually he drowned free diving while practicing big wave hold downs) and Mark Foo up at Maverick's by Half Moon Bay. Flew in from Hawaii and put on a wet suit for the first time in years that didn't fit.  Check out the movie 'Step into Liquid' if you haven't seen it, incredible, it'll make you paddle out, Santa Cruz locals star in it. The film is done by the son of Bruce Brown who did 'Endless Summer' I saw that film with Bruce up at the mic narrating with my Dad in '63 when I was 9.

 It stalled out in the shipping lanes 1000 miles away and sent 9 days of overhead, deep water groundswell at New England

>Perfect, 1000 miles out. We've got a serious hurricane hitting Baja right now, seems like unusual to get a south swell from there this time of year, but south swells are great all along California. Although, I'm telling you, Santa Cruz picks up everything and hardly ever blows out, it's really amazing, just stinking cold. We just had our first serious winter surf last week, I think it came down from Alaska, I got some.
Talk about OT, I bet people open this thread thinking were talking about sound waves. 
I hope we meet sometime.
Fenton


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Will Truitt 
  To: 'Pianotech List' 
  Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 12:07 PM
  Subject: RE: waves


  Hi Fenton:

   

  Interesting to hear of your surfing tales.  I too followed the long board rise, fall, and rise again too.  I started surfing in Ocean City, Maryland in 1964 in the early days of East Coast surfing, riding a 9'6" Yater.  Fun waves, fast folding beach break walls when it was good, and hollow too.  I surfed Bethany Towers, where my late friend Bill Wise broke his neck in 1965 and became a quadriplegic for the rest of his life.  (He wrote an article for Surfer Magazine about that in the early 90's).  I surfed on the West Coast for about a year in the late sixties, mostly North of San Francisco in Bolinas and Stinson Beach, although I surfed in San Diego some as well (Blacks never broke when I was there)  I can still remember watching the Potato Patch breaking outside San Francisco during the Mother of All Swells in December, 1969. (50, 60, 70? Feet)

   

  When I moved to New Hampshire in 1981, I started surfing here and in Maine.  Summers can be characterized by long, soul killing flat spells, but spring, fall, and winter has consistent, and occasionally large surf.  The biggest surf I rode in my life was about 15 foot at Rye on the Rocks ( a point break), coming from Gabriel, the largest East Coast hurricane ever.  It stalled out in the shipping lanes 1000 miles away and sent 9 days of overhead, deep water groundswell at New England.  Mostly I surfed with a crew of older guys whose company I really enjoyed and we had lots of fun together.  My favorite size is chest to head high too.  

   

  I stopped a few years ago.  It finally got too crowded up here and I can't say I miss the two hour drive each way, which I would do several times a week.

   

  I have had two Grand Passions in my life.  Surfing and Pianos.  I am doubly blessed to have two things to be  so enthused about.  

   

  Will Truitt

   

  From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf Of Fenton Murray
  Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 11:54 AM
  To: Pianotech List
  Subject: Re: waves

   

  A wave thread!? David Love and I just finished some reminiscing off list about this. Santa Cruz is home break for me for most of my 54 years. Pleasure Point for the last 25, I followed the long board rise and fall and rise again. Lot's of mat surfing back in the 60's. I used to go down to Rincon, and a little place called Refugio above Santa Barbara, Swami's, Blacks by S.D., San O. (love San Onofre) and wonderful Malibu. Southern Cal has a wonderful feel to it, but I think Santa Cruz has got so many breaks it might just be Surf City, and I live here! There a beach break (Manresa) 5 miles from my house I go to sometimes, great work out with occasional sand bars producing some perfect peelers. I surfed a little in Hawaii on the North Shore of Oahu, but in the summer, got great waves in Maui at Honolua Bay. I'm basically scared of big waves, but love chest to head high. I played in rock bands in Colorado all through the '70's and learned to ski there, skiing's a little rough for me now, but surfing is so fluid, I'm virtually never injured. If the water becomes so polluted it's burning out there, I'll still surf. I'm careful after the rains by the river mouths, that's about all you can do.

  Fenton

    ----- Original Message ----- 

    From: Steve Blasyak 

    To: pianotech at ptg.org 

    Sent: Saturday, October 11, 2008 8:31 PM

    Subject: waves

     

    Fenton were do you reside/surf???

    Rick B the water is not as polluted as you may think. I've been surfing the same waters for about 35 years and it hasn't killed me yet. There are much more pollutants in the air we breath.

    All I know is the other day Wednesday I think, Anaheim was the hottest spot in the nation at 104. I drove down to the beach at about 1:00pm. It was one of the most beautiful days of the year. Glassy all afternoon, after a two hour surf I sat on the beach reading a magazine and eating a late lunch. Almost no one was there because the summer is over. I thought to myself, I love Southern California in the fall.

    Steve Blasyak
    Orange County Ca

    Pura Vida
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