Removing old keytops

[Willem Blees]

Matthew

The height of the black keys should be 1/2" above the white keys. Since keydip is 3/8", (roughly), the black key should stop going down when the top is 1/8" above the black key. (approximately the thickness of a nickel.). You also want to check key height and dip on the white keys. If new keytops were put on, find out what the correct key height is supposed to be on that piano. Don't forget that any change in key height and dip will alter blow distance, letoff and drop. 


Willem (Wim) Blees, RPT
Piano Tuner/Technician
Honolulu, HI
808-349-2943
www.bleespiano.com
Author of 
The Business of Piano Tuning
available from Potter Press
www.pianotuning.com


-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Todd <toddpianoworks at att.net>
To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 10:46 am
Subject: Re: Removing old keytops



Since we are on this subject.....

?

I serviced a grand yesterday (did my first CA treatment, btw).? When?you play?the black keys, they get buried beneath the level of the whites.? It is evident that someone had replaced the tops.? I am guessing whoever did the procedure, failed to rout down the keystick to compensate for the thicker tops.? So, I will be returning later to correct this.


1.? Do?I set the black kep dip or the height?? I know if I set the height, I will have to readjust the capstans.? Is there anything else I need to be aware of as far as throwing other parts out of regulation?

?

2.? Do I need to do anything with the white key regulation at all?

?

?

Thanks in advance,

Matthew

David Chadwick <chadwick61 at cox.net> wrote:


Shawn, 

I have great success with using a Milwaukee heat gun. I'll do about 5 or 6 at one time by waving the heat gun over the tops and fronts until the surface is quite warm and then I slide a thin blade knife under the tail end and slowly work it off the keystick making sure that I'm not removing any wood also depending on what kind of glue was previously used. Works great for me and I'm done in about 30 minutes. Like you, I usually send-em out for recovering but once in a while I'll do a set. 

?

David C. 


----- Original Message ----- 

From: Shawn Brock 

To: Pianotech List 

Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 9:17 AM

Subject: Removing old keytops




List,

?

I have a Kawai U S T 5 which was given to me.? Problems include, broken sustain peddle, finish damage and chipped keytops.? This is a piano that I will probably turn in to a rental...? So the object here is to make more money than you spend...? Given this fact, I am going to replace the keytops myself.? These are one peace top and front.? Anyone want to share ideas for removing them?? I can easily get them off from the back, it almost looks like they are not glued down in the back.? Taking this approach though causes them to snap in the middle.? I usually farm out my keytop business but this just seems to not be worth it...? So, back to the subject at hand...? Should I heat them?? Or is it better to just chip away at them.? The ones I have removed seem to come off easily, but I wonder if a little heat will make it easier still!? Question 2:? Do you think I should go with the one peace tops and fronts?? I will say, that I hate the one peace top and front but...? Its what was on the piano.? Oh, and yes I'm sure the same thing will happen at some point.? They will chip or start to come off, but this is not a piano that's mint to last a lifetime.? I have a feeling they would have lasted longer, but it looks like the piano might have been abused heavily.? Regards

Shawn Brock, RPT




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