Getting the high treble right

[AlliedPianoCraft]

Stéphane, before you go through the trouble of re-hanging the hammers while 
taking off too much felt off the top, I would try some thin CA right above 
the top of the molding. You will be amazed at what it will do the perk up 
the last 6 notes.

Al Guecia



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From: "Stéphane Collin" <collin.s at skynet.be>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 5:41 PM
To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Subject: RE: Getting the high trebble right

> Hi John.
>
> At the moment, there is 5 mm felt between the molding and the crown at
> hammer 88.  On the older hammers, though, there was nearly nothing left.
> Yet they sounded very well, musical and all.  That might very well be a
> start point for experiment.  But if I reduce the felt layer by 3 mm , I 
> will
> have to re hang my hammers, not ?  If so, well that is life, as someone
> recently told me.  I spent some time in checking the right angle condition
> between hammer and strings at contact time, as you convinced me that this
> condition is absolutely crucial, certainly in the treble. (I'm convinced,
> certainly).
> What is your favourite dope ?  I indeed am always deceived by the
> acetone-key top mixture, as it brings some high partials at the cost of
> colour shades dynamics (who disappear), and no more question of fine 
> voicing
> after.  But I always put the mixture from top.  I will certainly try at 
> the
> moulding next time.
> I like your idea of letting the different hammers bounce on a hard 
> surface.
> Makes so much sense, as always.
>
> Thanks for your valuable input.
>
> Stéphane Collin.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On 
> Behalf
> Of John Delacour
> Sent: vendredi 13 juin 2008 23:06
> To: Pianotech List
> Subject: Re: Getting the high trebble right
>
> At 20:58 +0200 13/6/08, Stéphane Collin wrote:
>
>>Old hammers were lighter than the new ones, but new ones (Renner Wurzen 
>>AA)
>
> What thickness of felt have you between the strike point and the
> moulding wood?  Quite often Abel gives you too much, which means you
> get far too long a contact with the string.  You can either inject a
> hard-setting dope at the point of the moulding or reshape the top of
> the hammer.  Applying dope from the top downwards will not achieve
> the effect you want.  Let the old hammer and the new bounce on a hard
> heavy surface and see how differently they behave.
>
> JD
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