Henry Miller-reprise

[David Love]

Right.  After marking through the plate I use a forstner bit to countersink
giving some room for the nut below the level of the board.  The forstner
also leaves a centering mark which I then use as a guide for the drilling
the hole for the socket screws.  

David Love
davidlovepianos at comcast.net 
www.davidlovepianos.com

-----Original Message-----
From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Ron Nossaman
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 8:34 AM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: Re: Henry Miller-reprise


> I tried using the original holes a couple of times but since have 
> started filling them and redrilling.  Fill them with an epoxy/wood flour 
> type mixture.  That allows you to mark the new hole exactly centered 
> using a centering punch using the plate as a guide.  Using Ron's jig or 
> a drill with a bubble (bull's eye type) you can get things very close 
> without having to enlarge any holes.  Filling the old holes and 
> redrilling gets a much better fit for the socket screws and it's not 
> necessary to tap (in fact with epoxy fillers I wouldn't recommend it).  
> Just drill the holes 1/16" smaller than the socket screws and let them 
> cut their own threads.   
> 
> David Love

Yes, and after drilling the holes, counter bore them so the 
lock nut can go down flush with the soundboard surface when 
you install the bolts. You don't want to get the piano strung 
and then discover that you need to lower the plate tail a bit 
for bearing, but can't because of the nut. That sort of 
negates the overall convenience of the system.

Ron N