I just did my first attempt at Dremel Tool voicing. I read David's post, and tried deep needling the shoulders of the hammers of a Samick SG-185 that I talked about a while ago, and proceeded to break needles. They would not go into the hammers without breaking. I tried an experiment. I hung sample hammers on 3 F's in a row, F2, F3, and F4 (Steinway hammers that came off a nicely voiced B). The F#'s next to them, got needles, as best I could. The G's next to that got an acetone bath, in case there was hardeners in there that I could wash away from the strike point. The result was: the Steinway hammers made a huge difference in the sound (it sounded like a tin can before), and the acetone made the G's even worse. The deep needling was just right, but as I said, it was with great difficulty. So, I remembered a discussion on Dremel tool voicing from a while back, and tried it. What a huge turnaround! The piano now has depth that wasn't there before, along with a warm side, that definitely was not there. It took about 15 shots almost to the core, on each shoulder of the hammer. Then 3 shots right at the end of the string grooves, straight down, and a few still would not come down, so they took shots from the sides at 11, 12, and 1 o'clock. Suddenly, a pretty nice piano sound. Yes, new hammers, and steam were the alternatives, but I wanted to try to salvage the rock hard Samick hammers if I could. I also learned that there is an optimum speed to run the Dremel, too fast, and you leave little black scorch marks in the hammer, and too slow, and you can't get them in, or out without difficulty and stalling the tool. I also just got done with the Baldwin SF-10 that I talked about a little while ago. I put Abel "Naturals" on it (as suggested by Mark at Pianotek). What a huge turnaround on that one, too!!!. Try them, you'll like them! YMMV, but very little needling required in this case. Thanks to all on this list, who have given so much to advance the skills of this RPT. I appreciate it immensely. Clark A. Sprague, RPT
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