I just did my first attempt at Dremel Tool voicing. I read David's
post, and tried deep needling the shoulders of the hammers of a Samick
SG-185 that I talked about a while ago, and proceeded to break needles.
They would not go into the hammers without breaking.
I tried an experiment. I hung sample hammers on 3 F's in a row, F2, F3,
and F4 (Steinway hammers that came off a nicely voiced B). The F#'s next to
them, got needles, as best I could. The G's next to that got an acetone
bath, in case there was hardeners in there that I could wash away from the
strike point.
The result was: the Steinway hammers made a huge difference in the
sound (it sounded like a tin can before), and the acetone made the G's even
worse. The deep needling was just right, but as I said, it was with great
difficulty. So, I remembered a discussion on Dremel tool voicing from a
while back, and tried it. What a huge turnaround! The piano now has depth
that wasn't there before, along with a warm side, that definitely was not
there. It took about 15 shots almost to the core, on each shoulder of the
hammer. Then 3 shots right at the end of the string grooves, straight down,
and a few still would not come down, so they took shots from the sides at
11, 12, and 1 o'clock. Suddenly, a pretty nice piano sound.
Yes, new hammers, and steam were the alternatives, but I wanted to try
to salvage the rock hard Samick hammers if I could. I also learned that
there is an optimum speed to run the Dremel, too fast, and you leave little
black scorch marks in the hammer, and too slow, and you can't get them in,
or out without difficulty and stalling the tool.
I also just got done with the Baldwin SF-10 that I talked about a little
while ago. I put Abel "Naturals" on it (as suggested by Mark at Pianotek).
What a huge turnaround on that one, too!!!. Try them, you'll like them!
YMMV, but very little needling required in this case.
Thanks to all on this list, who have given so much to advance the skills
of this RPT. I appreciate it immensely.
Clark A. Sprague, RPT
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