bridge recapping tools

[Farrell]

Good point Ron N made about not planing down the top of the laminated 
bridge. I always plane my root to height and then bond the laminated cap to 
it.

If it is difficult to get a template off the old bridge, sure just start 
from scratch. Chances are that the originals were not perfect anyway - 
this'll give you a chance to straighten things out. Straighted the unisons 
out, measure new speaking lengths (some may change a bit) and then rescale.

And if you wish, I can cut you some very nice perfectly quartered solid hard 
maple for your caps.

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Hull" <hullfam5 at yahoo.com>
To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: bridge recapping tools


> Thanks for the info, Ron.
>
> Now to try to make templates on top of oblonged bridge pin holes..no 
> precision to be found there....  Or to decide to start from scratch laying 
> out the unisons.
>
> Bob Hull
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Ron Nossaman <rnossaman at cox.net>
> To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 2:12:53 PM
> Subject: Re: bridge recapping tools
>
>
>
>> I must dive in to my first treble bridge recapping job.  I
>> have only done a bass bridge thus far and it was only
>> beveled, not notched.  Maybe the difficulty of this job
>> can be taken down a few notches if I get the best tools and
>> wonder what you would recommend.
>
> Which tools are best is written in the blood stains of the user.
>
>
>> I have looked at the Mazzaglia website and saw: Bridge pin
>> tri-punches Massive chisels Bearing saw Bearing gauges
>> Bearing lines Notch tool - for cutting and cleaning the
>> sides of the notches Bridge capping washers - is this for
>> putting pressure on the joint while gluing on the new cap?
>
> Below is a photo of my notching tools. Pin punches are easily
> made from scrap 1/4" Plexiglass, and easily re-made if you
> don't like the first test. Do, by the way, test on a mock up
> before committing on the actual bridge. Go for about a 10°
> offset angle.
>
> I cut notch sides with the knife (with nicely curved edge) and
> a hammer (producing the dents on the knife's spine in the
> photo). This works as well for me as anything I've tried.
>
> Some folks like a really heavy mortising chisel, some like the
> Japanese chisels. I like a long blade (paring chisel), and
> considerable overall length. Mine is 12-3/8" (135mm) long,
> with a 6-1/2" (165mm) blade, 7/8 (23mm) wide. Any of these
> will work. It's a matter of personal preference and control.
>
>
>> Do you recommend PianoTek's bridge capping material or who
>> else.
>
> If you're planning on planing the new cap to finish thickness,
> stick with solid maple instead of laminated. The Pianotek
> stock should be fine.
>
>
>> I have read Bob Hohf's article on Bridge Recapping - not
>> artilcle more like a book.  Is there another good writing
>> on this ? - need something concise I know I'm going to
>> have a lot of questions on this and will also look over the
>> archives.
>
> The Journal reprints on CD has a bunch of stuff.
>
> Ron N
>
>
> 
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