workshop set-up

[Fenton Murray]

Annie, I have a shop that had this problem. The walls and windows would 
collect moisture, it came up through the slab floor. One problem I had was 
moisture not being able to get out of the building because of a vaulted 
ceiling. The roofing felt is water proof so the moisture just couldn't get 
out. I dropped in a ceiling and vented the attic on both sides of the shop. 
Any moisture that comes up through the floor goes through the sheet rock in 
the ceiling and is vented out. For the floor I first epoxy coated it then 
laid 2x4s on their sides with a plywood floor on top. The 2x4s all have 
breaks in them so air is not trapped, there are collection boxes all around 
the shop that vent under the floor and out through the walls, this allows 
air to flow under the floor and vent out the moisture. You could take it one 
step further and put in little fans to increase air flow under the floor and 
in the attic, but I haven't had to. This procedure completely cured an 
absolutely horrible humidity problem in one of my shops.
Fenton
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dean May" <deanmay at pianorebuilders.com>
To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 6:19 AM
Subject: RE: workshop set-up


>>>You'll have to put ( at least ) 6 mil plastic down,
>
> If you put the thick plastic down you will trap the water between the
> concrete and plastic, encouraging mold growth. If you use Styrofoam 
> panels,
> the moisture can get through eventually, unless you have standing water.
>
> You could also screw treated 1x2s to the back of the plywood before laying
> it down without Styrofoam to keep the plywood off the moisture and allow
> some air movement.
>
>
>
> Dean
>
> Dean May             cell 812.239.3359
>
> PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272
>
> Terre Haute IN  47802
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On 
> Behalf
> Of Prof. Euphonious Thump
> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 11:11 PM
> To: Pianotech List
> Subject: Re: workshop set-up
>
> You'll have to put ( at least ) 6 mil plastic down,
> then pour more concrete with the heating pipes in it,
> OR, much better, plastic, rigid foam, heat tubes and
> THEN concrete ( or wood ) floor.
>     For a  "quick fix", put down thick plastic, and
> plywood over it.( Or just cheap brown pressboard ).
>    Thump
>
>
> --- Erwinspiano at aol.com wrote:
>
>>
>> HI Annie
>>   All new slabs require a plastic layer/moisture
>> barrier laid down  before
>> the concrete is poured.  Is this an old slab?
>> Probably epoxy coating  the floor
>> is the only thing that will seal it.  My brother in
>> law is an  expert on this
>> & I'll ask him.
>>
>>   Dale Erwin
>>
>> My new  shop has a slab floor that currently tends
>> to get moist at times.
>> Since I  haven't been here an entire year yet, I'm
>> not sure what the
>> pattern is (and  I've already had some success with
>> stopping it), but it
>> seems to just come  and go.  I'm prepared ('though
>> not excited <g>) to tile
>> around  the entire shop, but I don't know whether
>> that will take care  of
>> it.
>>
>> Thus far, I've insulated the walls and covered the
>> ceiling  trusses with
>> plastic.  Foam board will go up as soon as there's
>> another pair of hands
>> handy.  Heat currently comes from a wood pellet
>> stove, which I love but
>> which makes me nervous when it comes to working
>> with various chemicals.
>>
>> So, I'm toying with the idea of putting in hot
>> water floor heating,
>> thinking that it will be more even and less
>> dangerous  AND keep the
>> moisture below the floor surface.  Has anyone put
>> floor  heat in a shop,
>> and how well did it work?  Is this idea worth
>> pursuing?
>>
>> Thanks, as always.
>>
>> Annie  Grieshop
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> **************Start the year off right.  Easy ways
>> to stay in shape.
>>
> http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489
>>
>
>
>
>
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