> I ran some tests with this stuff, Ron, and found > it no more or less reversible than the hide glue ( > soaking with pipe cleaners dunked in water, and > stuffed into mortises ) but it dries harder ( less > gummy ) than regular PVA, or Aileen's tacky Glue ( > thick PVC-E ) which made me figger it would swell > less, with humidity changes. What "stuff" is that, what is "regular" PVA, and swell less than what with humidity changes? > It also "fills gaps", a bit, so would help make up > for splintered mortise innards, and is so thick that > I'd doubt it would permeate bushing cloth, much, yet > seems to hold quite well, when dry. Are you talking about the thick wood molding PVA? > And it stinks less, and probably carries zero > chance of prion disease transfer which ( because I'm > not a "Real Man", I guess ) also appeals to me. You're on your own here. I don't want any part of any of these neuroses. > Run your own tests, and refute these claims, if > you wish, please. > Thump I don't wish, thanks. I've been quite happy with hot hide glue for many years, and if I should eat an infected batch and come down with mad shop rat disease, I'll just go into politics. Last week, I tried to strip a badly installed set of bushings out of a previously "rebuilt" Steinway L. The glue looked to me like the thick PVA. It was milky white and hard. The bushings steamed out, but took varying amounts of chewed up wood with them, which hide glue typically does not. The original mortises ended up so erratic in width, taper, and texture that I've made and installed a set of buttons and front mortises to get back to an acceptable bushing job. Slay your own dragons any way you like. Ron N
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