Upright pinblock question

[Dean May]

I use stove bolts, heads in front. On the back side I countersink the hole
with a 1.5” spade bit to recess the washer and nut. Then I cut the bolt near
the nut and glue a 1/2” cpvc plastic pipe cap over the nut to give a
finished look. 

 

Dean

Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 

PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 

Terre Haute IN  47802

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From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of John Ross
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 2:21 AM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question

 

I use carriage bolts from behind. Acorn nuts could be used in front, if you
are worried about the looks.

I wouldn't be worried about a nut being visible, as lets face it, you are
saving the piano.

John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca

----- Original Message ----- 

From: pianolover <mailto:pianolover88 at hotmail.com>  88 

To: Pianotech List <mailto:pianotech at ptg.org>  

Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2007 12:18 AM

Subject: RE: Upright pinblock question

 

I found this site for upright pinblock repair. I know my situation isn't
anywhere near this bad, but I fear it could get worse. Does this seem like a
feasible, reasonable approach? I don't much like the idea of inserting the
bolts from the back  to the front, with big bolts and nuts showing in the
tuning pin area. 

http://www.balaams-ass.com/piano/50-pnblk.htm

Terry Peterson


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Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2007 23:44:28 -0300
From: jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
Subject: Re: Upright pinblock question
To: pianotech at ptg.org

See if you can close the gap with clamps.

If you can, then it needs bolts through to the back for stability.

If you can't close the gap, then you would probably be ok with epoxy.

John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca

----- Original Message ----- 

From: pianolover <mailto:pianolover88 at hotmail.com>  88 

To: PIANOTECH at PTG.ORG 

Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2007 11:07 PM

Subject: Upright pinblock question

 

Recently acquired an amazingly well preserved Kohler & Campbell art case
console made in 1969. To look at it, you would think that it could have been
made yesterday!  It has never been played, thus the hammers are unmarked
after almost 40 years! Even the wooden wedge was still screwed in securing
the big panel (some call it the kick panel?) above the pedals! 

Anyway, the pitch was (not surprisingly) grossly flat--close to 140 cents at
A4! I checked all the plate bolts and they were 90% snug, needing maybe 1/8
turn to totally snug them back down. The tuning pins were found to be all
uniformly tight, and responded beautifully to minute, incremental
adjustments. The pitch came right up to A440 after the first pass, and after
letting it settle for a while I gave it its first tuning in nearly four
decades. 

I followed that with two more fine tunings to make it as solid as possible
for the time being. Ok, now to get to the main reason for my post; There is,
what appears to be a separation, not really a crack but a perfectly clean
separation at least 2-3' behind  the pinblock laminations, that runs the
entire width of the pinblock. 

As I stated the pins are uniformly tight, the laminations sound, and the
plate bolts tight. Also, I wanted to know the depth of the separation, which
ranges from maybe 1/2-1 millimeter wide at the very most, so I used a very
thin piece of steel and found that it was only about 1/4'-1/2' deep. Should
this flaw be cause for concern, or is it likely not going to affect the
stability? The tuning seems to be holding, but then I just finished it maybe
an hour ago so... 

Would it maybe help to 'fill' this crevice with thin west systems epoxy,
until it fills the area, then just let it dry and move on, or would that
just be a waste of time and epoxy? Or maybe Gap filling CA? Of course, it
would take quite a of CA to fill a 56' long, 1/2' deep cevice! Thoughts and
advice would be appreciated! 

PS: See the pics.

Terry Peterson


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