how about? for damper felts

[JOHN ROSS]

The Ross Clan, has increased the gene pool around the world.
I am originally from Scotland, left there in 1951, when I was 13.
John Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Allen Wright 
  To: Pianotech List 
  Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 9:54 PM
  Subject: Re: how about? for damper felts


  funny you should bring this up, John. Today as I was sizing newly installed damper guide bushings with my soldering iron tip, I made the mental note to myself to get a rheostat, because I had to be overly cautious about how long the tip spent in the bushing before black bits began to appear on the cloth (!) You're recommendation has been duly noted and will be acted upon.


  Thanks,


  Allen


  p.s. btw, by coincidence,  my boss (the National Tech Manager) at Steinway London is named John Ross. Are you sure you're not some sort of alter-ego?!    : )




  On 19 May 2007, at 01:07, JOHN ROSS wrote:


    Use a rheostat to lower the operating temperature of the soldering iron.
    An inexpensive one can be fabricated, using a light dimmer switch, since the wattage is low.
    Use trial and error to find the spot, and mark it.
    The same system, can be made to lower the temperature of the iron, if used with the hammer smoothing head.
    John Ross
    Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
    jrpiano at win.eastlink.ca
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Allen Wright
      To: Pianotech List
      Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 8:36 PM
      Subject: Re: how about? for damper felts


      oh yes, Terry, I've heard people mention this felt wedge technique: so, should I presume that you have 88 little wedges for all the keys? This technique sounds like it might be even more focused than just soaking the bushings. I like the brass caul/soldering iron idea - I'll have to make a tip like that for my soldering  iron. Sounds like the cat's meow...


      Cheers,


      Allen Wright, RPT
      London, UK




      On 19 May 2007, at 00:04, Farrell wrote:


        I've never tried wallpaper remover with water - although I hear very good results are had with that combo. I have always used denatured alcohol & water - about 50/50 on both damper felts and key bushing felts. Once the felt has been wetted, one can switch to straight water. The 50/50 initial ratio seems to not be critical at all. If hide glue had been used, after several hours of soaking, felt simply falls off - no cutting, tugging, scraping - no nothing - felt simply falls off.

        For white-type glue in key bushings, I have soaked with alcohol/water overnight. I place small wedges of dense felt in the mortise to hold moisture right at the key bushings. Then I hit each bushing with a very quick application of a dedicated hot key bushing ironing brass piece in the soldering iron. The quick blast of heat on the soaked bushing gives the bushing glue a shot of steam and makes them all but fall out. Unfortunately there remains some glue residue on the wood.  :-(

        I wish it were a law to only used hot hide glue on key bushings. Pa-foo-ee on anyone that doesn't.  ;-)

        Terry Farrell
          ----- Original Message -----

          While we're on this subject - I just introduced the notion of using a damper felt removal solution (diluted wallpaper remover and vinegar) rather than the manly (or womanly) slicing off and sanding of old felts (the old-fashioned method they've been using here), into the milieu of the Steinway London Restoration Centre, where I've been working for the last few months. Lightbulbs went on above heads when they realized how much time they won't be wasting anymore if they incorporate this cheeky American technique : )


          I've always figured that the ratios of the different ingredients were not particularly crucial - just a well-diluted solution. Does anyone have any comments on that? Is the vinegar really necessary? I think my solution morphed over the years from one including alcohol-water-vinegar to the present one, for vaguely remembered reasons....


          For keybushing removal here, they've been using pure "meths'", which as far as i can tell is a mix of ethanol and methanol (yikes - isn't that toxic?) and lots of tugging and slicing. I think the American solution will be an improvement with that, as well.


          I know: steam and wet cloth works very well on key bushings also, but that's probably a little too radical too present here. 


          I'd be curious to hear if there are any other ideas on glue softening solutions. This one works best with hide glue, naturally. Anybody have a solution for white and other more stubborn glues?


          Sincerely, 


          Allen Wright, RPT
          London, UK







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