Or, if you want to use bushings, why not just cut a bunch of appropriate diameter plugs to length (hey, maybe even cut them out of Delignit), ream plate if needed, tap bushings in (maybe a drop of glue on the bottom?) and drill them out with the same motion when drilling the pinblock. I've not ever done it that way, but I've wondered about it. Any thoughts? How does Yamaha do theirs - my understanding is that they do it differently than most rebuilders - they must do something akin to what I've described. Interesting. For that matter, why not just epoxy the entire block to the plate (at least on pianos where the block is not mortised into the rim), and epoxy Delignit bushings in (to the block and to the plate). That would sure make things nice and solid. I thought about that when looking at this Julius Bauer grand I was working on a while back while thinking of Ron Over's plate/pinblock design - much like the Bauer where the pinblock is surrounded on all sides by plate flange. Just epoxy the whole dern thing together. Why not? The next guy can simply cut/route/drill everything out 95 years from now. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- >> This plate has holes too large for the 7/16 o.d. >> bushings. Bob Hull > > If they do swell to fit now, they'll shrink and crack later. Been there, > though not with Xylol. In this case, I'd either make bushings to fit, or > leave them out. > > I always liked the feel of plate bushings, and would attempt to retain > them if it was relatively easy to do, but if doing so presents a > bottomless time sink or high likelihood of failure, I'll abandon them. > Part of that decision is determined by the pinblock you're using. > > Ron N
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