Hello again. I think we can assume we are talking about the rake... but you might ask him to make triple sure :) > i.e. the angle they are to > the shank ? If so... I don't think you need to worry about what they are > <<supposed>> to be because there are several quite acceptable schools of > thought on hammer rake. Would you like to list them? Though I suppose I could do a search on rake. Well, there are probably more then I know about... but one is to have the hammer at 90 ¤ to the shank at string contact, then some folks believe they should be slightly leaning forward, then there is the idea that the hammer should be 90 ¤ to the string itself, and adjust the rake accordingly. Sounds like perhaps this is what Ron is saying Knabe used to do... but not having much experience with Knabes and not knowing their history well enough I cant be sure. Nothing says you have to follow any particular method... but I would be skeptical to their being any standard set of rakes to fit string angle because that would require that every instrument was built with the exact same string to keybed distance, the exact same string angles, and the action fitted to these exactly the same every time. Not too likely. Tho some methods of putting the instrument together in the first place yield more consistant results then others. I generally approach this whole kind of problem by taking whats in front of me and setting bore lengths to a 90 degree angle with the shank when the hammer is in contact with the string. I almost never change the stack height, and I am unconvinced that when I have done so I really gained any significant benifit... tho no doubt there are extreme cases where this might be truly desirable. Considering this is your first attempt at a relatively involved action rebuild, I'd go with this procedure as its perhaps the easiest to get right and it will yield very good results. You might want to post some action height figures tho if you want more input from folks. Bob Hohf has a very exacting method for getting an optimal set of action heights, and his article series on the subject might be good reading for you if you want to get really into it. Other wise... just make sure you have a good spread, and that the capstan placement yeilds appropriate jack travel for the regulation specs you want... i.e. key dip, letoff, blow distance, and amount of aftertouch., and go with a bore distance that fits the formentioned. Thats my advice at any rate. One other question... .just to be certain.. you find your bore length by subtracting the distance between the hammer shank center and key bed and the string height and keybed right ? You did this and Ron says its greater then usual and thats why you suspect a stack change ? If so you could always look for other signs of a stack change... like shims under the bracket feet. Subtract their thickness and see if that gets close to Rons <<ususal>> ... you see where I'm going here yes ? Cheers RicB >Assuming you don't have any clearance problems > between the belly rail and the plate up in the higher treble... as for > example some Bechsteins at the top and at the break between the top and > treble sections, you can approach this several ways. My default is to > make the hammers 90 ¤ with the shank at string contact. > > You do know how to find the proper bore length yes ?... Yes, but I'm wondering if the stack height has been tampered with. The bore length now is greater than what Ray told me it usually runs. I'm having a feeling that I'm going to go through a growth spurt on this one. Or, the owner may decide to just might have me work with what is there and get it to play the best it can. > > If you are replacing much of the action, I suppose you should deal with > your checking problems after you get all the new parts on. Yeah, I was just trying to prepare myself if this part of the proposal is accepted. Thanks, Barbara Richmond * Previous message: clues to grand hammer pitch
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