Pinblock/back separation repair

[Mike Spalding]

Dave,

Often at least one backpost does not have a screw lined up with it. 
Often the filler blocks have separated from the backposts. Often the 
kind of piano that has separation (Wurlie, Sohmer, other small consoles) 
have marginal tuning stability due to lightweight frame design. If 
spending another hour will result in a structure that is as stable or 
more stable than original, then it ought to be worth the price of 
another hour to the owner. Besides, it helps me sleep better.

Mike

Dave Davis wrote:
> I readily endorse this method of not lowering pitch if the piano is 
> already flat. I first read this from Ron N a year or two ago and 
> recently had the opportunity to give it a try on a S&S Model VO (very 
> old). Ron N also made me re-think whether it is important, or even 
> necessary, to have a secure glue joint. The bolts totally secure the 
> pinblock to the backposts, is it even necessary to squirt glue or 
> epoxy into the joint?
> Dave Davis, RPT
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: tom <tomtuner at verizon.net>
> To: Pianotech List <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Sent: Friday, March 2, 2007 8:31:29 AM
> Subject: RE: Pinblock/back separation repair
>
> List,
>
> My last back repair was on a generic spinet –early 50’s as I recall.
>
> I’ve often lowered pitch before pulling things together with heavy C 
> clamps, but this piano was 100 cents + low .
>
> I set up my accutuner and checked pitch across the scale as I 
> –SLOWLY!!! --tightened and closed the back.
>
> Easiest pitch raise ever! The thing came up right around pitch as the 
> back closed up. .
>
> This piano had plate screws in the right places to secure the repair. 
> I removed them and drilled through for bolts.
>
> I like to use carriage bolts with the head on the back side with 
> washers on both sides and lock washer and nut on the front.
>
> I usually bring a few lengths of bolt and if nec. cut any protruding 
> threads with a hack saw. File smooth and you have a neat repair 
> without any protruding nuts on the back to scratch the wall.
>
> Then tune, tune, tune .and to answer the question the job took a few 
> hours including a few passes to stabilize tuning.
>
> I set up follow-up tuning shortly after as we were on the cusp of a 
> season change here in N.E.
>
> Tom Driscoll RPT
>
>         ----- Original Message -----
>
>             I need to do this repair on a 46 year old Sohmer upright,
>             model 34K. I have the procedural description found in
>             Randy Potter's course but I'm looking for a rough estimate
>             of the person hours involved. (Already consulted "G" Piano
>             Works Repair Labor Guide, to no avail. But Joe, how do you
>             like that citation?) Anyone have any ideas how long each
>             bolt takes? the entire job? Any help/guidance would be
>             greatly appreciated.
>
>             Jim Frazee
>
>