Removing key fronts

[Dean May]

Thanks for the reminder. I always have the shop vac hooked up to minimize
debris accumulation, but there is still some. 

 

Dean

 

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From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Jim Johnson
Sent: Monday, July 23, 2007 11:07 AM
To: Pianotech List
Subject: Re: Removing key fronts

 

A word of caution about using a table saw (or other power tool) to remove
key fronts or keytops.  Some of the older pianos used nitro-cellulous based
plastic which is very flammable.  It's the same material they used to use
for flash powder or gun cotton.  I just about lost my shop one time when a
piece of this material heated up in my saw and all the material on the floor
ignited in a huge fireball.  Luckily I had a fire extinguisher at hand and
put it out.  I never removed the burn marks from the base of the saw so that
I would always be reminded of how dangerous this stuff can be.

----- Original Message ----- 

From: Dean <mailto:deanmay at pianorebuilders.com>  May 

To: 'Pianotech List' <mailto:pianotech at ptg.org>  

Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 6:10 PM

Subject: RE: Removing key fronts

 

Ditto, sort of. I clamp a piece of wood on the fence, lower the blade, then
move the fence over until the left edge of the wood just covers the left
edge of the saw blade. Turn the saw on and slowly raise the blade allowing
it to cut a semi-circle into your new wood fence. After you get the blade  a
couple inches higher than your key, lower it slightly and turn off. You now
have a fence that you can set for cutting thinner than the saw kerf. Just
move the fence over to the right to get the thickness you wish to cut off
the key. 

 

My Ryobi saw has a built miter sled that makes the job a snap. I just square
the key against the miter fence, push the front against my wooden fence,
increase my grip on the key against the miter fence and push through the
blade. For keys with the dogleg going the wrong way (ie, bass) I flip the
miter fence around and hold the key against the near side of the miter
fence. 

 

To set your cut depth, use a scrap piece of wood and cut just a small
corner. Hold your new keyfront on that corner to see if the cut is deep
enough to make it flush. Adjust accordingly.

 

Once you are set up it goes really fast.

 

There is also in the Journal a series of articles by Bill Spurlock on
recovering keys with a nifty jig to do this job on a router. I think they
are from the early eighties. If you have the Journal on CD (why wouldn't
you?) you can get them by searching on author. 

 

Dean

Dean May             cell 812.239.3359 

PianoRebuilders.com   812.235.5272 

Terre Haute IN  47802


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From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf
Of Mike Kurta
Sent: Sunday, July 22, 2007 4:56 PM
To: fretsandkeys at earthlink.net; Pianotech List
Subject: Re: Removing key fronts

 

    Hi Bill:

    You will get lots of answers to your question.  My favorite method is
using a table saw.  I clamp a stop block ahead of the blade which gives you
a depth adjustment.  By carefully setting it up, you can cut just the front
off the end of the key, or if your new material is thicker than the old, you
can cut an additional thin slice of wood off at the same time.  You may have
to make up a jig attached to the miter guide because of the angles on the
keys.  Then holding the key firmly to the guide, push the key slowly through
the blade.  You can do a set in 15 minutes.  You can do a similar process
using a radial arm saw.  

    Mike Kurta

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