making an upright pinblock

[Bob Hull]

Thanks for the comments on the upright pinblock
building.

I'll let you know how it goes maybe next week.

Bob Hull
--- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote:

> 
> ----- Original Message ----- > Bob Hull
> > Another idea came me about making up the thickness
> for
> > the back of the block:  What about using part of
> the
> > old block back? 
> 
> Sure - as long as its integrity is good. Good
> thinking!
> 
> > I am going to remove it by drilling
> > out just in front of the glue joint and then
> > chiseling, planing, steaming out the remainder.  I
> > could plane down the old one and band saw it to an
> > approx. thickness then run it through the
> thickness
> > planer.  I wonder if it would be too hard for my
> > bandsaw (Delta 14") or if the aged wood would be
> too
> > different from the newer block material that I
> would
> > add to it?  
> 
> The old maple (or whatever) should cut similar to
> new maple. I'm quite sure your saw, properly set up
> with a proper blade, would cut a block just fine.
> 
> > Would you use epoxy or titebond?
> 
> Epoxy. But that's coming from "The Epoxy Man" and he
> is biased. 
> 
> Really, it depends on the quality of the glue joint.
> If the glue surfaces can be shaped to all meet nice
> a flush, then Titebond should work just fine. If you
> find it is difficult (or you just don't want to
> bother) to make perfectly aligning glue joints, then
> epoxy is definitely the way to go. For an important
> structural joint like this I recommend using West
> System epoxy (or an equivalent) thickened with their
>  404 High-Density filler and utilizing their
> two-step bonding method http://www.westsystem.com/
> (click on "Using West System Epoxy" and scroll
> down).
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Terry Farrell
> 
> 
> 
> 



 
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