Tom said: "Good suggestion. I've used a section of a heavy wire coat hanger doing one section at a time. Put the tails of the new springs through the holes in the rail.Thread the rod through the coils of the springs and clamp the rod to the rail with small spring clamps. This snugs the coils into the notch in the rail and keeps them aligned until the tails are wedged into the slots in the rail.The job goes quickly doing a section at a time. It's of course important to get the remnants of the old springs out of the rail. When finished replace the spring rail felt and install . One more suggestion--- I've replaced the wood screws (which are a pain to get in and out-especially if the action is in the piano) with machine screws, washer,lock washer and nuts. Drill the hole through the rail and pick a screw that will pass through the action bracket and rail freely.Remember to replace any shims(front rail cardboard punchings usually) that were there before the rail came out. I think Joe G. recommended using a piece of weld rod to hold the springs in place and I'll be trying that method on the next one----" Yes, use welding rod. One end has a 3/8" dowel handle, about 1" long, epoxied to the rod. The other end, has a blunt point, so that you can thread the rod through the coils as you go. You'll need two of them, each that are long enough to go half way on the rail. Clamp the rail to the front edge of your work bench. Start from one end and go to the middle. Go to the othe end and do the same. Before you take the rod out, it's a good idea to "crimp" the coils with a pair of small duck bill pliers, so the spring will remain perpendicular to the rail. When you are inserting the springs into the rail, use a pair of needle nose pliers to snug the coil against the notch in the rail, then make the bend to insert the "tail" into the other hole or slot. Always remove the old rail felt before starting this job. Also make sure all of the holes are clear of debris and glue. DAMHIKT!<G> I use a heavy sewing needle mounted in a dowel handle. I ground two, opposite, "flats" on th needle to make it into a miniature chisel/drill/pick. As for replacing the wood screws...yes, but not with bolts/nuts/lock washers/washers! The holes in the brackets are the correct size to TAP with 1/4-20 threads. Then all you have to do is drill the rail where the screws went, out to allow the 1/4-20, R.H. bolts to pass through. Put the rail in a vise, where you are drilling out, to avoid the rail splitting! another DAMHIK!<G> Then, all you need to do is put the rail in position and insert the 1/4-20 x 1" bolt in from the backside of the action and screw them in........No more fiddleing with offset screw drivers, etc..!!<G> BTW, there are some actions that will not allow you to take the original screw all the way out and you'll have to remove the Hammer Rest Rail in the process.. No bigee there...just bend the opposing rail pivot rod just enough to slide the other pivots out of their "bearings". Be aware that you will need to remove a few hammer butts next to the brackets to allow the pivots to slide all the way out. One final thing: ANY Time you are working on an action.....NUMBER everything before starting. This should be S.O.P. ALWAYS. Please use a pencil folks. The possibility of misnumbering is great and then you'll be able to erase your mistake.<G> Have a good one. Regards, Joseph Garrett, R.P.T. Captain, Tool Police Squares R I
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