Warranty Work Question

[mps at usol.com]

Thank you David!
I made the repair on Saturday.
Since I received the new whippen assembly from the manufacturer, I 
just replaced the entire thing.
Problem solved.  The note sounds as it should.

Thanks again to all !
Mark



> Just find a centerpin that will be tight in the birdeye and ream the 
flange bushing as
needed....
> 
> David Ilvedson, RPT
> Pacifica, CA  94044
> 
> 
> ----- Original message ----------------------------------------
> From: mps at usol.com
> To: "Pianotech List" <pianotech at ptg.org>
> Received: 11/3/2006 1:59:51 AM
> Subject: Re: Warranty Work Question
> 
> 
> >Thank you to all for their honest answers...
> 
> >The situation here is that when I tuned this piano the client told 
me 
> >that another tech. had tried to repair this key. The problem 
with the 
> >key is that sometimes it plays, others not.
> >On inspection it is evident that the jack is sliding too far side to 
side 
> >and not going completely under the hammer butt to allow it to 
play.
> >Upon pulling the action and whippen assembly, I can see that 
the 
> >birdeye at the jack flange is oval and jagged in shape. I'm 
thinking this 
> >is my problem and to correct this I should just replace the 
entire 
> >whippen assemblyand regulate this key.
> 
> >The manufacturer has already sent me the whippen assembly 
gratus.
> 
> >I will take the knowledgeable advice given here and put it to 
good use.
> 
> >Thank you!
> >Mark
> 
> 
> >> On 11/2/06, mps at usol.com <mps at usol.com> wrote:
> >> >
> >> > Also, this warranty form I need to fill out is asking me 
to make 
> >the call
> >> > if it is a factory defect or a defect in workmanship of 
a previous
> >> > technician. I DO NOT want to point fingers at anyone!
> >> > What is a new technician to do here?  So many 
variables I 
> >guess.
> >> 
> >> Dear Mark,
> >>  I've read several others' replies and thought I'd add my 2 
cents. I
> >> suggest you call the manufacturer's rep back and clarify 
with them
> >> your own policies. If that means (as others have 
suggested) a 
> >service
> >> call in which you evaluate the problem ($ X), and then 
calling the
> >> company on a regular business day to tell them your 
diagnosis and
> >> price for the actual repair ($ Y), getting them to confirm 
they'll pay
> >> you Y dollars to do the repair (and of course the X dollars 
for the
> >> diagnostic visit), you should be on very solid ground.
> >> Or you might give the rep a verbal quote based on what 
you're
> >> expecting to find, and plan on fixing it on Saturday. DON'T 
lowball
> >> your estimate because you may feel you want to "get in 
good" with 
> >this
> >> company, or because the  labor for hanging the hammers 
or making 
> >the
> >> key set was twenty-five cents in their Chinese factory!
> >> The manufacturer's warranty payment form may ask "if it 
is a factory
> >> defect or a defect in workmanship of a previous technician" 
for the
> >> most noble reasons: to improve quality control in the 
factory &/or in
> >> dealer prep. For example, are the hammers clangy 
and "like rocks"
> >> because that's the way they make them, or because some 
over 
> >zealous
> >> tech soaked them with way too  much plasic & acetone (or 
other
> >> hardeners)? A "nice", forward thinking company would pay 
you for 
> >your
> >> repairs in either situation. A chintzy one may try to weasel 
out of
> >> the situation, and suggest you bill the customer. IF 
they're 100% up
> >> front about this policy, there should be no problem -- you 
inform 
> >the
> >> customer by phone ASAP (before you go out to his place) 
that they
> >> *might* have a potential monetary liability.
> >> Last of all, are you certain you're competent at the job 
ahead? If you
> >> have any doubts, that would be where you might 
disappoint your 
> >client.
> >> If so, ask the list for advice, and search the list archives for
> >> appropriate solutions.
> >> Best wishes,
> >> Patrick Draine RPT
> >> 
>