Loren, Like most engineers you are very thorough in your communication. I understand that you are using solvents in an attempt to strip away some previous finish. I mistakenly had the impression that you somehow knew which finish had been used and therefor which solvent to use ahead of time. My mistake. I wonder, in saving yourself from the evils of all the various solvents by using your heat gun, aren't you exposing yourself to toxic smoke/fumes? Which is worse? best, Greg At 11:32 PM 5/26/2006, you wrote: >Greg, I'm sorry, I don't respond on this page >often and keep forgetting that my identity doesn't automatically get posted. > >I am Loren Hedahl, reside in Silverdale, >Washington, am a retired electrical engineer, >became interested in rebuilding pianos several >years ago compliments of a favorite son who >acquired several a few years ago and deposited >them . . . well, you get the picture, pianos >everywhere kind of like weeds. Now that he's >out of the picture working at a real job also as >an electrical engineer, I have some options on >how to dispose of these. I have chosen to >rebuild most of them, whether to my financial advantage or not. > >The local Puget Sound Guild Chapter kindly >allowed me into their group a little over a year >ago. I'm sure I have been more of a deficit >than an asset to them during this year and a >half, however perhaps I can contribute a little >now since I was recently elected to be their >chapter secretary. Not quite sure what I'm >getting myself into. I'll have to see if I can still spell and take notes. > >Concerning identifying an existing finish, try a >little alcohol in a non-criical area. If it >begins to disolve the finish it is probably >shellac. If that doesn't work, try lacquer >thinner. If that works, it is likely a >lacquer. I found in my experimentation that >lacquer thinner dissolves water borne lacquer readily also. > >When you get to the various varnishes and the >cross-linked stuff like conversion lacquer or >conversion varnish, two-part polyurethane clear >coat, polyesther, etc., things get really >dicey. Methylene chloride seems to work on almost everything. > >The problem is, have you ever met an elderly >fellow in apparent good health that did auto or >furniture refinishing for a living during all >his working years? From what I've read none of >the solvents are good for your >health. Methylene chloride is about the >worst. I've never heard of a piano that was >worth more than my health, especially the clunkers in my back forty. > >So that is why I am perfectly happy to risk >burning up or loosening the veneer with my heat >gun to avoid contact with the strippers that are >usually used. I am also working on a finishing >method using locally procured water borne >finishes. Actually this venture is very >interesting and exciting to me. I also have a >deep respect and appreciation for craftsmen who >restore historically valuable instruments to >their original glory and for those who make a >living tuning pianos with nothing but a tuning fork, a wrench and some mutes. > >To get more familiar with wood finishing, you >might like to check out some of the woodworker >forums -- I like Sawmill Creek, but there are >several others. The book I like best is "The >New Wood Finishing Book" by Michael Dresdner, >but again there are many others. Hope this answers your questions. > >Loren Hedahl Greg Newell Greg's Piano Forté mailto:gnewell at ameritech.net www.gregspianoforte.com
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