Someone here said it would, and that's not true. The DC humidistat has a 200 Watt limit. You could, of course, run it to a relay which then turned the dehumidifier on and off. ( see "Grainger Industrial Supply" ) This became of interest after a stuck-on Kenmore dehumidifier damaged a very clean, well-made Bjur grand that I had just purchased! Dried it out quite badly. I was also interested in this for better accuracy in humidity control. Well, I just took the humidistat from the Kenmore dehumidifier out, and the problem was immediately apparent: the hydroscopic nylon strip which grows and shrinks with humidity changes is supposed to be in a loop, with the ends glued together. It pulls on a switch which turns tthe compressor on and off. The ends came unglued, so it stayed "on" all the time. I just emailed the maker (DNA Group in N.C. ) and asked them for a new switch. I also asked them to pay for the piano. ( Please wish me luck! ) G --- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote: > Not trying to be argumentative, but a vapor barrier > will not solve this > problem. The condensation is from water vapor in the > air inside the room. If > the room is at 40% RH and 72 degrees, it has a > certain amount of water vapor > in the air - whether more vapor is coming into the > room and being removed by > a dehumidifier or whether the room is vapor-sealed > and at 40% RH with no > humidifier or dehumidifier operating. When air under > those conditions is > chilled to 46 degrees, condensation form - no need > for additional vapor to > enter the room. Presumably it is insulation you need > - not a vapor barrier. > > However, a vapor barrier is likely always a good > thing to have - will help > keep your room conditions constant and minimize the > work a climate-control > system has to do with humidity - but the specific > problem here is > insulation. > > Or a warmer climate. Just wait a few years. Unless > of course the Gulf Stream > stops....... > > Terry Farrell > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Thanks Chistopher, Terry... and Don. > > > > I wonder if you could expound a bit on exactly > what a vapor barrier is... > > is that like a space of dead air in between double > panes of window glass ? > > > > Terry... about the Farhenheit bit.... I was > speaking Amerilish for youz > > guys's benifit you see... :) > > > > Cheers and thanks. > > RicB > > > > Responding as an architect, I asked a senior > technical architect in our > > office for his thoughts. He agrees with Mr. > Farrell. The building > > envelop needs a vapor barrier. If it is a hot > humid climate, the barrier > > should go to the outside. If it is a cold dry > climate, like here, it > > should go towards the inside. > > ------------------------------ > > > > My best guess is that the ceiling and upper walls > are poorly insulated. > > These are outside walls? The dew point for 40% RH > and 72 degrees F is 46 > > degrees. So if it was 36 degrees F outside and the > walls were around 40 > > degrees F or so, condensation will occur on the > walls. > > > > I thought Europeans used the Celsius scale for > temperature. > > > > Terry Farrell > > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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