My experience mirrors Ron N's. I haven't made any adjustments to my planer's rollers, but by lifting up on the stock as the end comes through the knives, I can usually eliminate any snipe. I just made three new bridge roots for a client and I ran both the tops and bottoms of all three bridge roots through the planer to thickness them and had no snipe. If I don't hold up a longer board going through, it will snipe the end. When I am building soundboard panels (including your's - today!), I run the subpanels through my 12-1/2" Dewalt two-knife planer and again, by lifting the subpanels as the other end approaches the planer knives, I avoid any snipe. I've run pinblocks and all sorts of things through my planer, and it seems that as long as I support the hanging end of the long board, I can get around the snipe issue. I would suppose that some planers are better than others in that regard - don't know though, as mine is the only one I have ever used. Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- >> Snipe would be a concern as one of the things I will use this for is >> planing out those little cutouts from Steinway long bridges. Similarly, >> I will be running the topside through the planer as well. What is the >> best way to avoid snipe when pushing something like that through? >> >> David Love > > > The biggest problem is unsupported stock ends. With everything else in the > planer set up and adjusted to specs (particularly bed rollers and pressure > bar), lifting up on the back end of the stock as it goes in (at least > until the outfeed roller has the front end), and lifting up on the front > end (as the infeed roller loses the back end, until the stock clears the > blades), minimizes snipe. Bed rollers should be barely above table height > for hardwoods. Some adjust the bed rollers clear down to bed surface > height. If the stock will feed with that much bed friction, that helps > too. > > Ron N
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