I, too, have the Rigid spindle, belt sander. Works great. James James Grebe Piano Tuning & Repair Member of M.P.T. R.P.T. of the P.T.G. for over 30 years. "Member of the Year" in 1989 Creator of Handsome Hardwood Caster Cups, Piano Benches, Writing Instruments (314) 845-8282 1526 Raspberry Lane Arnold, MO 63010 BECOME WHAT YOU BELIEVE! pianoman at accessus.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brad Smith, RPT" <staff at smithpiano.com> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2006 6:22 AM Subject: Re: Spindle Sander Review > Hi Jon, > I also bought the Rigid Oscillating Edge Belt/Spindle Sander. Thanks > again for mentioning it. Last month, I did a set of Steinway upright > hammers, and today I am about to use if for trimming a set of > installed hammer shanks and then tapering hammer tails. ( I like to > hang hammers first, then taper tails with Spurlock's jig). > This Rigid machine has been really a pleasure to have in the shop. > I'm constantly walking over to trim or sand something quickly...it's > fairly quiet, well-built and has little storage nooks for each > accessory. > Jon, you also mentioned buying more sleeves from Klingspor. Did you > feel that the grits provided were too aggressive? or did you have some > other plans? Just curious. > > Have you come up with any jigs or ideas for using it to file/shape > hammers? > On the set I did, I found that because of the gradually changing size > of hammers, I had to 'free hand' each one, and I had to quickly > develop a manual technique to carefully remove felt symmetrically. > Maybe I need to see Chris Robinson's class you mentioned, where he > uses an orbital sander.... > They came out fine and I'm not nearly as worn out or full of dust as > I would the old way, but I would love to find a way to put each hammer > on a jig to absolutely control the amount of felt removed. > > Any ideas anyone? The jig would need to accommodate for gradually > narrower hammers, and make it possible to remove the same amount of > felt from both sides of the hammer. > It may be that you could only 'jig sand' a circular area encompassing > the maximum shoulder width...and then you would finish up below the > shoulders, leveling them out to match up with the new surface created > at the shoulder. > It might require a two-piece jig....one to clamp onto the hammer at > exactly the center of the wood core....and a second one to be the > anchor and pivot point for locating the hammer to the sanding > surface....like Spurlocks tail shaping jig. > > The first clamped and centered piece would have to be reversible, so > you could remove material from one side, then flip it over and to the > same to the other side. > > The second anchor/pivot piece would need a control to gradually move > it closer to the sanding surface as you proceed through a set of > hammers, (starting in the bass). And, it would need the ability to > change/control the shape of the sanding arc. > > Perhaps someone already has attempted this using a powered sander. ? > Perhaps I've just invented it as I typed? Easy to say, not so easy to do > ! > > Thanks everyone, for any input. > -- > Best Regards, > Brad Smith, RPT > www.SmithPiano.com > II III II III II III II III II III II III > brad at smithpiano.com > 603-494-4147 > >
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