I haven't had any luck trying to "neutralize" or wash out silicone oil with solvents, including acetone. The usual fix is to put a little silicone (fish eye preventer) into what you're spraying. I just found an article on line that advises against fish eye preventer and advocates ammonia to clean a contaminated surface. It might be worth a try. Tom Cole William Benjamin wrote: >Have you tried neutralizing with paint thinner? > >William > > > > >PIANO BOUTIQUE >William Benjamin >Piano Tuner Extraordinaire >www.pianoboutique.biz >The tuner alone, >preserves the tone. > >-----Original Message----- >From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On Behalf >Of gordon stelter >Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2006 11:21 AM >To: Pianotech List >Subject: How do you subdue silicone in a finish? > >Dear List, > I'm trying to put a proper decal ( not mailbox >letters ) on the keycover of an 1880 Chickering. From >the ripples and fisheyes in the existing lacquer, it >is evident that prior to being poorly refinished, >silicone-contining polishes were used. > I wet sanded ( 600 grit silicone carbide with >naptha ) the existing finish flat, then tried to spray >a base coat of Deft lacquer, and it fisheyed all over >again. So I wet sanded it again, and tried spray >shellac. Same disgusting result. > I'm guessing that several really fine "mist >coats" of shellac or Deft would have to be sprayed, >until it creates a seal up over the silicone-permeated >lacquer underneath. Then decal, then full wet >topcoats. But I thought I'd ask y'all how you might >handle this stumper. > Thanks! > T > > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around >http://mail.yahoo.com >_______________________________________________ >Pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > >_______________________________________________ >Pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives > > > >
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