If the tops of the holes are too messed up, you might drill the rail all the way through, with the appropriate sized drill bit carefully positioned into the bottom of the hole. ( The bottoms of the holes being presumed to still be in their original position. ) Then, put a piece of Mylar (TM) under the front rail, and put the appropriate sized PianoTek center-locating punch in the hole, making a prick in the Mylar. Transfer this to the top side of the rail with your new wood inlay in place, and drill new holes. Thump --- Farrell <mfarrel2 at tampabay.rr.com> wrote: > Good thinking. Thanks. Sounds like a winner. I will > however examine how > straight the hole pattern ends up on the bottom of > the front rail after > drilling through - these things are sooooo crooked > that I fear I may still > have an erratic pattern after I drill through - > hopefully it will work. > > Terry Farrell > > ----- Original Message ----- > >> Any special recommendations for spacing the > holes? Other than the > >> obvious - measure old and space accordingly..... > Maybe there is some sort > >> of ultra-slick method (maybe not)? > >> > >> Thanks. > >> > >> Terry Farrell > > > > Nothing slick, but will lazy do? Any chance of > drilling the existing holes > > through, routing out and inlaying a strip of > maple, and using the through > > holes from the back as guides to re-drill? With > your overhead track > > pinblock drill, it shouldn't be a problem keeping > everything square and > > accurate. > > > > Ron N > > > > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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