Setting strike point

erwinspiano@aol.com erwinspiano@aol.com
Thu, 26 Jan 2006 18:42:16 -0500



-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Graham <grahampianos@yahoo.com



    hey Greg
   All good questions & many good answers so far.  I also use the sound 
or amount of sustain plus the qualiy of  sound of the treble hammers in 
the shifted position as another guide to optimal hammer placement.  If 
the tone is thin and whiny accompanied by lackluster power, the hammers 
need to come forward. Use the description Jon page describes. The area 
around c-6 is usually the note requiring the furthest excursion towards 
the keys rsulting in , yes, a horshoe in the hammer line but a much 
improved sound. Generally this line starts about g-5 and extends to 
appro. f-6.  This is on Stwys but have seen this anomally on many other 
makes.

  BTW any piano worthy of a new set of hammers is worth this minor extra 
 process to achieve optimum results. Hey why not?
   Dale Erwin


   Dear jigless grand hammer hangers,

The discussion on hammer hanging jigs last week
prompted several of you to suggest that a straight
hammer line is not optimal for sound.  You say each
hammer (at least the top two or three octaves) could
or should be set at the strike point that produces the
best sound.  You are tweaking the placement of many or
even all hammers, rather than placing C88 and using a
straightedge to the bottom of the piano.  Someone
mentioned that this level of attention makes sense for
very high quality instruments, and I'm interested in
working toward that end of the quality
spectrum...eventually.

The question bouncing around in my inexperienced head
is this:

>From a practical perspective, what methods do you use
for finding the aurally ideal strike point of
individual hammers?  How do you manipulate the hammer
on the shank?

Do you slip the hammer on the shank dry but snug, put
the action in the piano with the cheek blocks in
place, then tap the hammer in and out somehow through
the strings? Pull the action, adjust, replace action,
repeat?  Will a dry fit hammer handle heavy blows
without moving?  Are heavy blows required?

Do you glue on the hammer and pop it off again if it
isn't right?  Will a dry fit hammer sound the same as
one that is glued?

Do you use paper strip shims between the hammer and
shank to hold the hammer fast while testing?

Do you do several or even all hammers at the same
time?

Do you have someone "in the hall" listening, or do you
go with what you hear from the keyboard?

Does your method take a week, a day, an hour, two
minutes?

Looking for some how-to.  Thanks.

Greg Graham
Brodheadsville, PA

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