cleaning

David Ilvedson ilvey@sbcglobal.net
Mon, 6 Feb 2006 7:48:46 -0800


Dave,

That is one powerful vacuum if you can leave it in the car...;-]   I've got a Port-o-vac that works well...is their 
a way to measure a vacuum's intake power other than against your hand and saying "Hmm, seems pretty strong."

David Ilvedson, RPT
Pacifica, California



----- Original message ----------------------------------------
From: "David Nereson" <dnereson@4dv.net>
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Received: 2/6/2006 12:37:44 AM
Subject: cleaning


>John Formsma wrote:

>> Marshall,
>>
>> Carry a little package of "Handy Wipes" to clean your hands after you 
>> finish. You can get them from just about anywhere.
>>
>> John Formsma
>>
>> pianotune05@comcast.net wrote:
>>
>>> Someone out there mentioned a vacuum.  Are you guys referring to 
>>> those little Dirt Devil type?  I'd like to vacuum out a piano 
>>> especially behind the knee board.  Also, is there something useful to 
>>> clean pins, the plate and even the strings?  My hands are black when 
>>> I'm done tuning.
>>> Marshall
>>> ps. I was writing up the invoice on Friday with dirty hands, not that 
>>> I mind dirt, but I want to look professional.
>>
>>

>   Not "Handy Wipes," but "Wet Ones" in the round plastic can.  They
>even make anti-bacterial ones.
>   The little Dirt Devil-type vacuums are too small and not powerful
>enough except for a cursory cleaning on top of the keys, perhaps.  I
>went to a used vaccum cleaner store and found a Hoover Shoulder Vac (has
>a shoulder strap) for about $40.  I leave it in the car, along with the
>brush attachment and crevice tool (thin nozzle).
>     For the tuning pins, I use a 1 in. paintbrush to loosen the dirt
>while vacuuming with the crevice tool, and I have another brush with the
>bristles worn way down which I use on the bridge pins, hitch pins,
>stringing braid, embossed details, etc.  For the strings, the brush
>attachment get most of the dust and the paintbrush gets in where the
>hose attachment won't fit.  For in between strings, to dust off the top
>of the bridge (uprights), I use a thin glue brush with the handle
>flattened.  It has masking tape wrapped around the end of the ferrule so
>as not to scratch soundboards.    For the plate, I just dust it with a
>rag.  If it's really dirty, I'll spray 409 or similar cleaner on a damp
>rag and use that.    For rust on strings, I use Polita, the "ink
>eraser"-type chunk of rubber with abrasive in it, available from Schaff,
>I believe.  Steel wool's OK, too.  With either, you have to vacuum up
>the rubbings.
>   For the soundboard tools, I use the T-shaped squeegee-type tools
>along with a soundboard steel (wrapped in shrink tube)  to push a dust
>rag around under the strings.  Sometimes I'll dampen it with a dust
>control spray, or even use a damp rag with 409 on it if there are
>spills, stains, etc.
>   After cleaning, if my hands are too dirty for just a disposable
>wipe,  I'll ask the customer if I may wash my hands.  They never
>refuse.  Just don't make their freshly scoured kitchen sink look like
>one in a gas station.    What I would like to see is some kind of "fuzzy
>snake," like wind instrument players have for cleaning trombones,
>saxophones, etc., that one could push down (or up) the length of the
>long bridge on uprights.  It would have to be able to slip between the
>plate struts and strings somehow.  I suppose one unison could be
>loosened or removed for access in extreme cases.    --David Nereson,
>RPT




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