Brass Rail to Wood Flange Conversion

Farrell mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
Sun, 5 Feb 2006 16:44:36 -0500


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MessageOkay guys, please help me understand here. I'm understanding both =
Ron and Marcel to suggest that the butt flange in the picture below does =
not have sufficient contact with the action rail. Marcel goes further to =
suggest, that because of a lack of contact, the metal rods will imbed =
themselves into the flange and rail and the flange screws will =
continually loosen.

This system has quite a bit of contact between the flange and action =
rail. The two entire rectangular areas (about 12mm x 5mm each) of the =
flange above the flange screw and below the screw are in intimate =
contact with the action rail. Plus it also has the limited surface area =
of the wires. That's not enough?

The only way that would not suffice is if the flange is going to bend a =
fair bit under the screw (because of a lack of support there) - but the =
screw head extends all the way to the two rectangular areas above and =
below the screw that are in contact with the rail. And of course the =
metal wires are there also. Seems to me this should be very stable.

Please help me understand. Am I missing something?

Thanks for all your thoughts and input.

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message -----=20
>> However, I did incorporate some of Ron's suggestion (although not the =

>> heart of his suggestion) - I ran a length of #17-1/2 music wire along =

>> the bottom side of the flange screw (nice snug fit) and kept the =
upper=20
>> brass rod.
>=20
> Don't. That won't last. You need contact area. Either build up=20
> the rail to fit the flange, or change flanges.
>=20
> Ron N
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  I have to jump in on this one. I think that this setup is due to fail. =
It seems to me that it won't take long for the rods to dimple in the =
flange and the rail. Eventually, I can see the flanges moving forward on =
the rail after a few years tightening of the flange screws.

  Have you thought about gluing a piece of maple on the rail to fit the =
flange, or, glue a strip in the aligned set of flanges and then =
recutting and redrill. I think this would have given you a lot bigger =
contact surface than just the 2 steel dowels. A piece of sandpaper glued =
to the rail would have then prevented the moving around (same as in =
older grands' hammer rails).

  Just as usual my humble opinion.

  Marcel Carey,
  Sherbrooke, QC=20

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