Michelle, I always pre-drill the screw hole, especially in this sort of application. And, I make the hole in the piece that I'm first putting the screw through just a smide larger than the hole in the second piece. This allows the screw to act more as a clamp gives you greater control over the snugness of the resulting joint. Robin Blankenship ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michelle Smith" <michelle at cdaustin.com> To: "'Pianotech List'" <pianotech at ptg.org> Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2006 1:13 PM Subject: RE: My first bit of bad news > First of all, thanks SO much to all of you who responded on this topic. > I'll let you know how things go when I visit my client in a couple of > weeks. > > > Last question, do you pre-drill the hole to avoid cracking the rib or just > "get after it" with the screw? > > Michelle Smith > Bastrop, Texas > > > -----Original Message----- > From: pianotech-bounces at ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces at ptg.org] On > Behalf > Of Marcel Carey > Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 11:23 AM > To: 'Pianotech List' > Subject: RE : My first bit of bad news > > The one thing I don't like with the sheetrock screw, is the weakening of > the ribs. You have to drill 2 holes about 7/32" in each rib along the > crack. What I prefer to do nowdays is just use one small screw and a > piece of flat maple. I drill a very small hole in the rib right on the > crack and then srew my block from the front pushing that soundboard > against the rib. When this is not possible because of the plate being in > the way, I would use a screw right in the crack from behind, leaving a > lot of it protruding in the back, use medium CA glue between the board > and ribs and then just use plyers to pull on the screw toward the ribs > and wait a few seconds for the CA to set. I then remove the screw. This > way at least the ribs won't be weakened (never mind that old uprights' > boards are already flat). > > Marcel Carey, RPT > Sherbrooke, QC > >
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