Preemptive CA in bridges?

[Lhadeh at wmconnect.com]

Sorry, I didn't make it clear that the strings were already out.  I had 
planned to replace the bridge pins as they didn't have that nice shiny new look.  
When I pulled them, most by hand, the bottom part buried in the wood looked new 
and had a nice rounded end, instead of the pointy end.

So I just inverted them, swabbed the hole and pin with thinned out hot hide 
glue and tapped them back in.  Turns out the bridge was also drilled to a 
consistent depth, so they all appear nice and level without grinding.

You are right about the residue.  There is a small cuff at the top of the 
bridge around each pin.  I was able to remove the glue softened by heating each 
pin with a regulated soldering iron using a bamboo skewer sharpened 
appropriately.

If this is a bad idea, I could have those pins out in an hour, then redrill 
and install oversize pins.  Cost/time is not a significant factor since this is 
a piano I acquired for the express purpose of disassembling everything that 
can be, replacing anything that needs to be and restoring it to a piano again 
as a learning experience.  It will be a couple of weeks, at least, before I get 
serious about  restringing. 

Loren Hedahl

Hi Loren(THIN)  <FRESH>   CA,  wicks almost totally into the wood and arround 
the pin leaving almost no trace that CA has been used. This can be done 
without removing the pins or lowering the string tension. Tuning usually goes a 
little sharp ( about 5 to ten cents ) but is manageable. I like to do this at or 
very near tuned pitch or after a pitch raise that has shown the problem 
area.Epoxy with heat sometimes still leaves residue that needs to be cleaned up. The 
added heat truly changes the tuning a bunch.Hot hide glue, wont that require 
pulling the pins? And all the extra tuning that goes with that?Bottom line the 
work involved. I'm sort of lazy <g>Joe Goss RPTMother Goose Tools
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