Compartmentizing

[Farrell]

I'll third that motion! CA works pretty good for a fast fix for stripped 
screw holes - not as good as plugging and drilling, but it can work quite 
well. I usually jam a couple of splinters of hardwood (something a little 
soft like mahogany) into the hole with CA and screw the screw in. I put the 
accelerator directly onto the screw - I have found that you can easily break 
the bond between the CA and the screw - remember, CA doesn't have very good 
shear strength.

In this particular case however, a significant part of the problem is likely 
related to "All the screws were stripped in the dowel in the rail." Dowels 
do not belong in a hammer rail - likely someone "fixed" stripped screw holes 
in the past by drilling and plugging with dowels - as Debbie pointed out, 
the proper repair is done with maple plugs, not dowels. This hammer rail 
either needs a new rail or needs the dowels drilled out and replaced with 
plugs.

Terry Farrell


Although, truthfully, the stripped hole should be drilled and plugged, there 
are many instances where this is not possible.  Remember, people, I'm a 
player tech <G>.  A good way to create *new* thread in a wood hole is to 
first spray the screw with your favorite mold release.  Then with a 
toothpick as an inserter proceed as follows: cut a small strip of pouch 
leather, fold it in half lengthwise over the tip of the toothpick, carefully 
coat with med CA (or put a couple teeny drops in the screw hole).  Insert 
leather into hole using the toothpick to guide it to the bottom of the hole. 
Make sure your strip is long enough to create *tails* at the top, outside of 
the hole.  Hold these tails apart and down to the surface as you thread in 
the screw.  Let set five minutes or so.  Remove screw, trim away excess 
leather tails.  New threaded hole.  BTW, cover your fingers that handle the 
tails with masking tape!

Debbie L.

>I beg to differ. CA works wonderfully for fixing stripped screw holes. Hit
> the hole with accelerator, add 2 drops of CA, and viola! Fixed.
>
> I also routinely add a couple of drops of CA to high usage holes before 
> they
> strip with no accelerator. Keeps 'em from stripping.
>
> That is not the same thing as Bob was describing, gluing the screws to the
> flanges as I understand.
>
> Dean
> Dean May


----- Original Message ----- 
> I agree whole heartedly.  Every tool, adhesive, lube has it's proper usage
> and CA is definitely not for fixing stripped screw holes.  Used properly, 
> of
> course, it is a wonderful tool to have in our bag.
>
> Regards,
> William R. Monroe
>
>
> Bob Moffatt wrote,
>
>     "I wasn't going to bring this up, re: the " magic - fix everything,
> illustrious CA" but since I know I have at least you on this side.....I 
> will
> !
>    I went on a call to address a clients concern regarding an older S&S
> "M". It seemed simple enough. When he played with a tad of vigour,
>    some  hammers were hitting the adjacent note. I go to his home, 
> thinking
> at worst, I will be adjusting the unacorda travel. No way!!!!
>    It turns out to be loose hammer flanges. Reposition the hammer, tighten
> the flange screw..done. No way!!! It turns out that the screws are "CA'D"
>    to the flange. Reason?....All the screws were stripped in the dowel in
> the rail. I think of the logic(?) behind this but....well I give up.
>    Same with the loose pedal screw. Has anyone heard of a lock 
> washer?...or
> two nuts on the threaded rod tightened together? Won't come
>    loose. Very frustrating,
>
>    Ten Four,
>
>    Bob"