This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment David Love said: "The nicest thing about hide glue is the reversibility. = Removing bushings glued in with PVC-E is a pain. Bushings glued in with hide glue will = nearly fall out when saturated with an application of water spiked with a small amount of the surface tension reducer of your choice. Hammer heads = won't click with hide glue if the fit is reasonable and if you apply it to = both parts before assembly (and if you use a bit of urea to be sure assembly takes place before the two surfaces gel and won't bond as well). I've recently tried using Franklin's Trim and Molding Glue for hammers and it worked nicely. But I had to remove a set glued on with it and while it = was no trouble to heat the joint and remove the hammer head, I found it difficult to get all the old glue off the shank. When heated it turns = into a kind of sticky rubber band that doesn't really come off that easily. = The hide glue softens up nicely and can be heated to a crystalline state = where the poorly named "Hammer Shank Reducer" works quickly and effectively to remove the old glue without "reducing the shank". =20 If the objects you are gluing together will never have to come apart = there are many choices. But if you anticipate ever having to undo the joint, = or want to make it easier for the next guy, you might want to consider hide glue." =20 David, That is precisely my point, as well. Perfectly stated, IMO! Thank David. = I hope others will 'carefully' read your post, as it is the essence of = how to chose a glue!<G> Best Regards,=20 Joe Garrett, R.P.T. Captain, Tool Police Squares R I ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/7e/01/9e/ca/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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