Joe writes: << One of the beauties of using hide glue, is the ability to use it in different consistencies, for various types of jobs. Having said that, for key bushings it should be about the consistency of Honey. I always have a "stir stick/hammer shank, in the pot. I stir and then lift the stir stick out of the glue. It should drip about the rate of a fifth, 3 in 5 seconds of just slightly towards a fourth. If it drips faster it's too thin. >> I rarely use glue this thick. Maybe for hammer hanging, but not for felts. >>The best results are achieved with the application of the glue with a round wooden tooth pick. Dip the tooth pick in the glue. The bushing cloth is laying on the side of your index finger, held by your thumb. "Stripe" the cloth, lengthwise with the glue.<< Perhaps if the technique calls for applying glue to felt, the above thickness is required. However, I apply the glue to the wood of the key, and for that, a thinner glue is my preference. When the glue hits the wood, it loses a bit of the water and begins to gel in place. I get a sizing effect in the front rail mortices while applying the glue directly to the wood, and, it allows the repair of the ever present stray wood chip or splinter. As the felt is pressed into this tacky surface and clamped, it seems to adhere without hardening more felt than is necessary. Going leisurely, the glue has time to gel a little so the joint isn't starved. I get good glue penetration, and solid bonding in an easy to remove package. When I was first taught this way of bushing, the North Bennet school was using Bill Garlick's "English boxcloth" that was so finely woven, we barely did more than wet the bushing mortices. It stuck like crazy. Since then, I have used what seemed like lesser cloths, and they do need more glue to stick. Regards, Ed Foote RPT http://www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/index.html www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html
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