Moulded Key Tops

Terry terry@farrellpiano.com
Mon, 7 Mar 2005 08:29:27 -0500


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I have buffed quite a few sets of keys - both ivory and plastic (as well =
as lots of metal parts). I use my ShopSmith. You can use an arbor that =
mounts directly on the main drive shaft (don't need to use drill chuck). =
I love using the ShopSmith for buffing because of the rotation speed =
control. You can melt a plastic top in seconds at high speed - yes, you =
need to slow it down quite a bit. I don't know exactly how fast - =
experiment on a few junk keys and you'll get a feel for it real quick. =
Make a few scratches on some junk keys and you will find out how =
aggressive a fast buffing wheel can be! With just a few minutes of =
practice to gauge your rpms, you will be able to do fast beautiful =
buffing with your ShopSmith. I have purchased all my buffing supplies =
from Pianotek and have been very pleased with their products.

IMHO, the rpm control that the ShopSmith offers makes the unit nearly =
idiot-proof for buffing (notice I said nearly).

Just about every action that comes into my shop goes out with a freshly =
buffed sparkling set of keys! (All those little scratches that will =
always be on a set of plastic keys after a few years will buff out =
perfectly in seconds!).

Terry Farrell


> John,
>          You could easily put an arbor in the drill chuck and run a =
buffing=20
> wheel on that. The Shopsmith's speed dial will you get you much slower =
than=20
> most motors intended for buffing. Speed is important but I think that=20
> contact time and pressure are even more important.
>=20
> Greg
>=20
> At 01:34 PM 3/6/2005, you wrote:
> >Re the speed thing.
> >I have a ShopSmith, I should be able to rig up something on that. It =
is a=20
> >very versatile machine.
> >I wonder what the optimum speed should be, or does it depend on the=20
> >compound you are using?
> >John M. Ross
> >Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada

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